Pasta alla Norma invites improvisation

Pasta alla Norma is a Sicilian eggplant pasta dish named for the opera “Norma,” a musical masterpiece, and both reflect the country’s exuberant culture.

The pasta dish was created in the city of Catania, on the eastern coast of Sicily and the hometown of Vincenzo Bellini, who composed the opera in the 1830s. It was said the composer adored the pasta with such a passion that the bold, deeply satisfying dish was eventually named after his opera.

The pasta is based on just a few inexpensive and accessible ingredients, including olive oil, eggplant, tomatoes and pasta — the homey flavors that define “cucina povera,” or “peasant cooking”: simple, delicious meals made on the cheap. In Pasta alla Norma, eggplant stands in for meat, and is perfect for vegetarians and omnivores alike.

There’s no correct recipe for Pasta alla Norma. This humble, traditional, iconic dish varies from cook to cook. Some fry the eggplant in olive oil to toss with tomato sauce, cheese and top with bread crumbs; others sauté the eggplant, lay the slices over the pasta and drizzle with the sauce. Updated versions roast the eggplant in a hot oven, forgoing the messy frying step. The pasta’s shape seems inconsequential; some recipes call for rigatoni, ziti, penne or mezzi, others for spaghetti and linguini.

This dish is best made with a quick, fresh tomato sauce, but a good store-bought marinara will certainly do in a pinch. Because eggplant is the star here, make sure you choose those that are shiny, firm, bruise-free and heavy for their size. Don’t bother to salt them first; that step is really unnecessary with eggplant this fresh.

Served with a tossed salad and a hunk of good bread, pasta alla Norma is a full-throated aria. Bravo!

Pasta alla Norma

Serves 4 to 6.

Eggplant takes the place of meat in this classic Sicilian recipe. Here, it’s roasted, not fried, yielding a lighter, more flavorful dish. Plus, it’s less messy. If you’re short on time, feel free to substitute your favorite marinara for the quick tomato sauce. Fresh basil is a must! From Beth Dooley.

2 medium eggplant, about 2¼ to 2½ lb. total, peeled

Extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

16 oz. pasta, rigatoni, penne or ziti

3 cloves garlic, smashed

Generous pinch red pepper flakes

1½ to 2 lb. tomatoes, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

¼ to ½ cup dry white wine, optional

½ cup chopped basil, plus a little more for garnish

½ cup grated ricotta salata or pecorino

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line two large, rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Slice the eggplant into ½-inch thick discs, discarding the end pieces. Brush the eggplant slices with the oil on both sides and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Roast until browned and very tender, about 40 to 45 minutes, flipping the slices over half way through. Remove and cut into strips; set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add enough salt that it tastes briny. Stir in the pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente. Remove about ½ cup of the pasta cooking water before draining; set aside.

Film a large deep skillet with about ½ inch of oil and set over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook until it begins to color, about 30 seconds to 1 minute, then stir in the red pepper flakes, tomatoes and oregano. Cook, stirring, until the tomatoes are very soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the reserved pasta water and wine and continue cooking to make a thick sauce, another 5 to 8 minutes. Gently stir the roasted eggplant into the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Stir in most of the basil and half of the cheese. Serve garnished with more cheese and chopped basil.