If you’re visiting Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve in its centennial year — as I was recently — or making a road trip that extends as far as Wyoming or Utah, it’s easy to consider breezing through southern Idaho en route to your destination.
Instead, take the scenic route through this corner of the Gem State, which offers some real diamonds in the rough. There are immaculate hot springs, delightfully odd museums, occasional good eats, hikes with uninterrupted summit views and a breathtaking canyon to explore.
Along the way, you’ll never be too far from the Snake River, which defines this part of Idaho as it winds a whopping 1,080 miles from its headwaters in Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks until it merges with the Columbia River in the Tri-Cities. The Snake carves canyons through a swath of southern Idaho that offers big sky vistas of mountain peaks towering over plains and deserts.
Dotting the rural landscape of small towns and farmland, meanwhile, are some decidedly quirky roadside attractions befitting the region that served as the setting for 2004 cult comedy “Napoleon Dynamite.”
Pocatello: Eat, climb, soak
Among southern Idaho’s small cities, I made a detour to Pocatello, curious to check out the college town home to Idaho State University which also claims to be the “U.S. Smile Capital.” I didn’t stick around long enough to vet the friendliness of the locals, but two attractions made me smile.
First was a hearty breakfast at Elmer’s, the midcentury greasy spoon diner of my dreams. The Pocatello location is one of only two in Idaho for this Oregon-based mini-chain (there are also locations in Tacoma and Vancouver). The “looking for sun” omelet ($15) laden with cheese, salsa, avocado and sour cream started my day on a decidedly bright note.
Second was the plethora of hiking trails that rise right out of this college town nestled in the mountains. I found plenty of sun and vistas across the Bannock Range, on the 8-mile round-trip, nearly 2,000 vertical feet climb to the summit of Scout Mountain.
Nothing beats a posthike hot springs soak, a combination Idaho offers in spades. Pocatello was also attractive because it’s just 35 miles from Lava Hot Springs, a small but bustling resort town centered on a clutch of hot mineral pools.
The hot springs facility, beautifully set against a rocky outcropping, was clean and uncrowded on my visit — a solid value at just $3-$12 per session depending on the day of the week and your age.
The waters range from 102 to 112 degrees and, a rare treat, have no sulfurous odor. Try the gravel-bottom pools for a gentle foot massage, or take a break from the mineral baths and stroll through the adjacent sunken garden. With summer hours until 11 p.m. nightly through Sept. 30, a soak under the stars comes highly recommended.
Peckish or thirsty? Lava Hot Springs welcomed Eruption Brewery & Bistro in October, a solid choice for a meal before a soak and a beer for after. (Alcohol consumption before entering a geothermal pool is not recommended.)
Small-town hotels
I’m a sucker for a touch of luxury in an unexpected setting, so I swooned at the prospect of staying at The Harkness Hotel, a bank built in 1906 and converted to a boutique hotel 10 years ago (rooms $134-$279 per night). It’s likely the only reason you’ll stop in McCammon, a speck of a town halfway between Pocatello and Lava Hot Springs.
While the rooms, each with a distinctive decorative style, looked dreamy in photos, I was less enamored upon arrival with the quality of the furniture and finishings in The Ebony. The spartan amenities — an airport lounge-style coffee machine in the lobby and a gift shop in the former bank vault — didn’t encourage me to linger. But in this sparsely populated part of the country, The Harkness is still a cut above a chain motel. On my next swing through the region, I hope to check in at The Drift Inn in Rupert.
Offbeat museums
Antique mops, vintage washing machines and the world’s largest collection of vacuum cleaners are among the exhibition highlights at the Museum of Clean in Pocatello ($5-$10 admission).
Cleaning magnate Don Aslett collected thousands of artifacts in his career preaching the gospel of cleanliness, like these vintage vacuum cleaners on display at the Museum of Clean. The museum claims to have the world’s largest collection of vacuums — nearly 1,000, the oldest dating to 1869.
The haphazardly curated museum is the bizarre brainchild of Aslett, who while a student at Idaho State University started a cleaning company in 1957 that he turned into a national brand. Along the way he authored dozens of books on housecleaning — all of which are on prominent display near a larger-than-life statue of a janitor nicknamed “Big Don.”
Evergreen State science and history buffs surely know of our state’s role in the Manhattan Project at the Hanford site in Eastern Washington. But did you know that southern Idaho is arguably the birthplace of atomic energy, the world’s first nuclear power plant to produce in-house electricity?
Experimental Breeder Reactor-I was erected at the Idaho National Laboratory along a lonesome stretch of highway. The facility lasted for a decade before it was replaced by a more advanced reactor. Today it operates as a free museum that feels like an “Oppenheimer” film set, with tours led by national lab docents. Twenty more miles west on Highway 26 and you’ll end up in Arco, the world’s first city powered by nuclear energy.
Views and brews
Daredevil Evel Knievel tried and failed to jump the majestic Snake River Canyon in 1974 (stuntman Eddie Braun pulled it off in 2016). There’s a monument to Knievel’s legendary attempt at the foot of the Perrine Memorial Bridge, which crosses the canyon just outside of Twin Falls, another of southern Idaho’s bigger (albeit still quite small) cities — but well worth the detour off I-84.
The bridge is open to pedestrians on both sides and offers sweeping upriver and downriver views. The middle is a popular site for BASE jumpers to launch into the abyss 486 feet above the Snake River (tandem jumps $250). For a river-level view, hike the steep Pillar Falls Trail — just remember, never swim near the falls, where dangerous undercurrents lurk — or rent a kayak or paddleboard from AWOL Adventures and paddle as far as 8 miles upriver from Centennial Park to Shoshone Falls ($40-$45 for six-hour rental).
After ogling the canyon high and low, retreat to downtown Twin Falls for a well-earned refreshment at Koto Brewing Co. A roomy, inviting gathering space with a steady roster of live music and events, the brewery also serves up tasty food and drink. Order an Easy Rider Pilsner done up michelada-style ($6) and tuck into a koto steak sando with housemade miso vinaigrette ($17).
