Explore Mount Rainier’s foothills by pedaling on historic railroad

EATONVILLE — When my family pulled into a gravel lot next to abandoned train tracks on a crisp fall weekend, we were greeted by an unexpected sight next to a graffiti-covered boxcar: a row of blue-and-yellow Frankenstein bike contraptions. They had hard plastic seats like an amusement-park ride, pedals with a single-speed chain like a bicycle, and train wheels to grip the rails.

RailCycle, as this conveyance is called, is the newest attraction offered by the Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad, which returned from hiatus in 2023 under new ownership. Tours ($38 per seat) offer a roughly 3.5-mile out-and-back jaunt through farms and fall foliage. If the mountain is out, there’s even a peekaboo view of Mount Rainier herself. As the leaves continue to turn color, a RailCycle excursion is a family-friendly, accessible way to taste the autumnal air while preserving a slice of Puget Sound history.

Although the handy mechanics at the Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad built the RailCycles from scratch — a trifle compared to restoring steam locomotives — this novel ride has considerable pedigree. In the 19th century, railroad workers invented rail bikes as a convenient way to ride the rails. The first patent for a rail bike was filed in 1869, but they fell out of fashion with the advent of motorized rail carts.

Riding the rails

Arrive early enough to check out the vintage model on display in the boxcar that doubles as a gift shop. Fortunately, the bespoke RailCycles are considerably sturdier than that rickety-looking antique. With room for four passengers, they are designed to make forward progress with just a modicum of effort.

While my 3-year-old was too short to reach the pedals on the adjustable-length seats — five-point harnesses are available for younger passengers to still enjoy the ride — once kids are tall enough, they are welcome to join the fun. And the staff is happy to provide a back cushion as a boost to help someone get from tippy-toes to feet squarely on the pedals. Parents are welcome to bring babes in arms, as we did using a baby carrier.

Tours typically run seven or eight bikes, each with at least three pedaling passengers, while both a lead and tail guide hop on board to control the pace. The guides start off with a quick orientation on the otherwise simple mechanics. Sit, adjust seat length, strap in with safety belt, pedal, grab hand brake as necessary.

There are just two main points to bear in mind. First, said guide Frank Amon, is no playing bumper cars. The guides space out the rail bikes at least 100 feet to avoid collisions. “We can’t have a good time unless we have a safe time,” he said.

Second, the outbound leg runs on a 2 percent downhill grade. “It’s uphill on the way back, so please save some energy for the return trip,” Amon advised us. And for anyone who doubts their ability, he promised, “We’ve had dozens of people think they are going to be the one [who can’t pedal uphill]. Everyone’s made it back.”

Soon enough, we were off. The coasting leg was easy, like riding a Wheel Fun surrey on Alki Beach or a Quad Pedal Boat on Green Lake. Guide Deb Patterson explained that this stretch of track runs 41 miles to the Port of Tacoma, where once upon a time it carried load after load of lumber, but likely hadn’t been used since World War II. As the fall brings out the fungi, she also pointed out train wrecker mushrooms, a species resistant to creosote (a chemical used to weatherproof railroad ties) that can grow sufficiently large to damage train tracks — hence the ominous name.

After 1.5 miles or so, we reached the end of the line. We dismounted for a brief break (there is a portable toilet here, but the flushing toilet at the start is much more pleasant) while the guides turned the RailCycles around using another clever custom build — a frame with wheel bearings that sits on scissor jacks.

Once all the bikes were oriented 180 degrees in the right direction, we strapped back in for the return leg. The slight uphill grade made for slower going, but it wasn’t particularly strenuous. For even the slowest riders, round trip took all of an hour, including stops. As a parent who regularly reads “The Little Engine That Could” to my kids, I couldn’t help but invoke the famous locomotive chugging uphill while puffing “I think I can.”

While the low-impact ride may not scratch the itch for anyone craving a more strenuous outing, RailCycle comes highly recommended as an activity for mixed-age and ability groups, especially young families, where everyone can participate.

Railroad reborn

The children’s story protagonist is also an apt metaphor for Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad itself, which leaves from a train depot 6 miles away from RailCycle. Opened in 1980, the railroad carried over 1.6 million passengers, most recently under the ownership of American Heritage Railways. The Colorado-based operator closed its Washington operation in 2020 as a result of COVID-19 pandemic shutdowns. Grinding the train wheels to a halt was a blow to the seasonal tourism economy in the Mount Rainier foothills.

Two years later, the nonprofit Western Forest Industries Museum bought the railroad operation and reactivated a network of some 100 volunteers. On Sept. 1, 2023, the railroad roared back to life with the sights and sounds of puffing steam and train whistles, carrying almost 11,000 passengers during a truncated inaugural season on a 12-mile, 75-minute round trip between Elbe, Pierce County, and Mineral, Lewis County. This year, the railroad is on track to see over 70,000 passengers with some 350 excursions all running near the 200-person capacity. Themed trains like a Halloween run, the ever-popular Polar Express, and adults-only whiskey, wine and beer tastings trips are all sold out through the end of the year.

Rest easy if you can’t squeeze a train ride in this fall, however. Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad has ambitious plans for 2025 to reopen its dormant train and logging museum in Mineral, repair sufficient track to double excursion length, run three recently purchased 1924 passenger coaches to increase capacity and create a new RailCycle route. Around the bend, it also plans to showcase its extensive train holdings at a new museum in Eatonville.

“We are repurposing the historic infrastructure that built Washington’s economy both for historic preservation, but also to create meaningful impact on the communities where they originally operated,” said the nonprofit’s Executive Director and CEO Bethan Maher.

Want to support the cause yourself? Make a small donation to “buy a tie,” or fix up one of the thousands of railroad ties needed for safe track operations. You can also contribute to the fund that will restore Porter No. 5, the next steam engine in line for refurbishment. Visit mtrainierrailroad.com/about to learn more.

Day trip

Whether you’re pedaling off on a RailCycle or riding a historic steam train, you’ll be done in an hour and half tops. To make the most of the day trip — here are a few suggestions.

Need a bite, and maybe a tipple, after your railroad excursion? Mill Haus Cider Co. in Eatonville is the spirit of autumn incarnated. At this mostly outdoor taproom, which opened in 2021, plump apple trees and brilliant red Japanese maples are the perfect tableau for sweater weather. Fire pits keep it cozy as the sun goes down, while cornhole and Jenga entertain the kids. Don’t miss the haus dry and apricot peach when you order the cider flight ($12 for four 5-ounce pours) to wash down the delectable burnt pork belly sliders slathered in gochujang ($17).

You’ve come this close to the mountain, so go the rest of the way. Mount Rainier National Park’s timed-entry reservations ended for the season on Sept. 3, which means it’s now locals season at our marquee national park.

These next few weeks are your last chance to drive all the way through the heart of the park until next summer, though Highway 123 over Cayuse Pass will remain open until the first snows, likely mid-November. Check st.news/Rainier-roads for the most up-to-date road status.

Mushroom season is in full fungal bloom in the damp forests near Packwood. Foraging friends have reported bumper hauls of chanterelles, lobsters and hedgehogs. Grab a mushroom knife and pack a reference like “Fruits of the Forest: A Field Guide to Pacific Northwest Edible Mushrooms” by local mycologist Daniel Winkler.