A local food scene doesn’t just happen. Certain things need to be in place to allow talented would-be chefs to thrive. For years, the Vancouver Farmers Market has offered space for people to start their businesses. The Second Mile Marketplace has provided a commercial kitchen. Now relative newcomer Recluse Brew Works at the Port of Camas-Washougal has opened a parking lot for new food businesses to find their footing.
Richard LaRue, general manager of Recluse Brew Works, isn’t a fan of Instagram but he’s constantly scrolling for new and interesting food purveyors. Then he patiently pursues them.
“You have to keep on it to get popular carts,” LaRue said.
On any given weekend, the smell of Filipino, Cajun, Peruvian or Mexican food wafts into the taproom at Recluse. The parking lot might contain a barbecue pop-up shop or a cluster of Hawaiian food vendors, but also tents for a 5K run, yoga, a gathering of classic Volkswagens, an alpaca petting zoo or a traveling bookseller. Many of these vendors are trying out new businesses while others like Vancouver’s 4 Caminos are expanding their service eastward into the Columbia River Gorge.
LaRue corresponded with Caleb Moos of Flavorsmyth Craft Barbecue during the year it took Moos to get equipment and permitting for his barbecue business. When Moos finally met LaRue in person at his pop-up shop at Recluse it felt like reuniting with an old friend.
Sally Huynh of Pi Square describes LaRue as a connector. While still in the planning stages for her Detroit pizza business, LaRue sent a message on Instagram. Encouraged by this correspondence, Huynh came to check out the space. It seemed a bit off the beaten path, but at the same time, this slower trickle of customers was a good way for her to prepare for her spot at the East Vancouver Farmers Market. She also met the owner of Husubi’s Poke Shop, who was popping up at Recluse, to get some tips from her for running a booth at the farmers market. In addition, she met Moos through Recluse, which led to a barbecue and Detroit pizza collab.
“People like Richard are invaluable to small businesses like mine,” Huynh said.
LaRue doesn’t audition vendors by trying their food but goes by his own instincts and seeks out food that seems interesting and compatible with beer from Recluse. This isn’t a hard task given that Recluse specializes in food-friendly lagers and pilsners. Recluse doesn’t charge food businesses to set up in its parking lot.
Training ground
Creating a successful food business is as much about quick, efficient execution as it is about making something delicious. Recluse gives businesses a low-stakes training ground to get their prep, assembly and cooking methods down. The businesses have direct contact with customers to get their opinion of the food.
“The best part is the live culture, people making friends and sharing food,” said Moos of Flavorsmyth. “You will feel successful if you’re in it for the smiles and the good feedback.”
