Soy sauce transforms Japanese chicken meatballs

Japanese chicken meatballs, called tsukune, are a standard offering in pub-like izakayas and restaurants specializing in yakitori. Sometimes shaped into cigars rather than orbs, the meatballs are grilled on skewers and finished with tare, a savory-sweet soy-based seasoning sauce.

Unlike tender meatloaf or burgers, these meatballs have a pleasing bounciness, so don’t feel the need to be gentle when combining ingredients to make the meat mixture. In this recipe from “Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we vigorously mix dark meat chicken with grated garlic and ginger, fresh scallions, panko bread crumbs and an extra savory combination of sesame oil and white pepper. This gives the meatballs their characteristic structure and chew.

Instead of skewering and grilling the tsukune, we shape the mixture into small, thick meatballs, then do all the cooking in a nonstick skillet on the stovetop. Take care not to brown the meatballs aggressively or they’ll cook unevenly from edge to center. Heat the oil for browning them over medium-high, then reduce the burner to medium as soon as the meatballs are in the pan.

Once lightly browned on the bottom, flip each meatball and add a mixture of sake, soy sauce and mirin that has been simmered with smashed garlic and bruised ginger. Cook, occasionally turning the meatballs and basting them with the sauce, until the exteriors are glazed. To add a little spice to the tsukune, offer shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven spice blend) or yuzu kosho (Japanese chili and citrus paste) at the table.

Japanese-Style Chicken Meatballs

Start to finish: 50 minutes. Servings: 4.

½ cup sake

½ cup mirin

¼ cup soy sauce

2 medium garlic cloves, 1 smashed and peeled, 1 finely grated

2-inch piece fresh ginger, 2 teaspoons finely grated, the remainder thinly sliced and bruised

1 pound ground chicken, preferably dark meat

4 scallions, minced, divided

1/3 cup panko bread crumbs

1 large egg white

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

Ground black or white pepper

2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, plus more for oiling your hands

Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment and mist with cooking spray; set aside. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high, combine the sake, mirin, soy sauce, smashed garlic and bruised ginger. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring often, until reduced to ¹/3 cup, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic and ginger; transfer the mixture to a small bowl. Rinse out and dry the skillet.

In a large bowl, combine the chicken, grated garlic, grated ginger, ¼ cup of the scallions, panko, egg white, sesame oil and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Using your hands or a silicone spatula, vigorously stir and knead the mixture until well-combined and sticky. Using lightly oiled hands, divide the mixture into 16 portions (about 2 tablespoons each), form each into a ball and place on the prepared baking sheet. Lightly press each ball to slightly flatten it into a 1- to 1¼-inch round.

In the same skillet over medium-high, heat the neutral oil until shimmering. Place the meatballs in the skillet, reduce to medium and cook until lightly browned on the bottoms, about 4 minutes. Flip each meatball and add the sake-soy mixture; continue to cook, occasionally turning the meatballs and basting them with the sauce, until the centers reach 160 degrees and the exteriors are glazed, 5 to 7 minutes; reduce the heat if the soy mixture is reducing too quickly.

If desired, transfer the meatballs and glaze to a serving dish. Sprinkle with the remaining scallions.