It was probably Clark County’s most popular golf course. And the hamburgers were pretty great, too.
Ten years ago in May, Steakburger and the associated Golf-O-Rama served their last customers at 7120 N.E. Highway 99, in the heart of the Hazel Dell strip. By then, the original customers were bringing their grandkids and great-grandkids for a chance to play one or both of the 18-hole miniature golf courses, probably to be followed by a chocolate milkshake or a soft-serve cone and one of the eponymous hamburgers.
The story of Steakburger is intertwined with America’s post-World War II car culture, figuratively and literally. Highway 99, the original highway linking Portland and Seattle, was on the east end of the property and Interstate 5 on the west. Today, it remains a fond memory for generations of Clark County residents.
The Columbian’s archives suggest Steakburger began operating sometime in the 1940s. But the story about the business that Clark County’s old-timers remember best begins in 1962.
That’s the year it was leased by Harvey Johnson, a former dairyman who owned and operated restaurants and theaters in Amboy and Battle Ground. Joining him in the venture were his wife, Ruth, their daughter, Merilyn Condon, and her husband, Bob.
Capitalizing on America’s sudden love of miniature golf, in 1963 Johnson built two 18-hole courses behind the restaurant. The grand opening was June 1, 1963, with a Mayor’s Golf Tournament featuring the mayors of Vancouver, Battle Ground, Camas, Washougal and Yacolt.
An ad in The Columbian promised, “You’ll enjoy the Hazel Dell Golf-O-Rama … the ONLY 2 complete 18-hole miniature golf course in Clark County! You’ll relax in friendly surroundings, where you’ll have convenient access to the food at the Steakburger.”
Both of the courses were lighted so customers could play at night and meticulously landscaped, with live grass between the holes, shrubbery and large beds of marigolds, geraniums and other seasonal flowers. The courses featured a bunch of obstacles, including a windmill and a rocket ship, but the toughest hole was the volcano. Located on the north course, cheers erupted anytime a player hit their ball with just enough momentum to drive it up the hill and put it in the cup without it skedaddling down the back side.
In 1969, Johnson rebuilt the restaurant in a typical 20th-century style, with picture windows on three sides, plenty of booth seating and a counter where you could order. (There was also a drive-thru, but most customers went inside.) Over the years, three more Steakburgers were built, two in Oregon and the fourth at 3605 E. Fourth Plain Blvd., Vancouver, although none of them apparently offered miniature golf.
The business became a family affair. A May 6, 1982, article about the family’s 20th anniversary at Steakburger mentions at least 11 family members representing three generations were employed at the business.
“We all began working for father at the age of 8 or 9, wiping tables and collecting money at the golf course,” recalled granddaughter Tina Condon. By age 17, she was managing the Fourth Plain restaurant.
Over the years, the family was prominent in other ways, too. Harvey Johnson helped create another community tradition, the Hazel Dell Parade of Bands. He volunteered at the Clark County Fair for 20 years and had the primary responsibility for arranging the entertainment.
By the time its 50th anniversary rolled around, the other Steakburger restaurants were gone, but the Highway 99 location continued strong. Led by Commissioner Marc Boldt, in July 2012 the Board of Clark County Commissioners issued a special proclamation congratulating the Johnson and Condon families and wishing them another 50 years of business.
As we all know, that didn’t happen. Some of the family members were ready to retire or had moved on, and the land had become more and more valuable. So the owners accepted an offer from a developer. The business closed for good at 4 p.m. May 29, 2014. That last day, the line snaked around the parking lot.
“I have to admit, I didn’t realize we touched so many people’s lives. It’s hard to let it go,” said Merilyn Condon as she sat in a booth that afternoon with her children and grandchildren.
Today, the site is home to several businesses, including a Taco Bell and Panera Bread. But the Hazel Dell Parade of Bands lives on. And so does Steakburger. Tina Condon and her daughter, Tiffany Castano-Sawyer, set up a mobile food cart, Steakburger on the Go. Offering some of the restaurant’s favorites, it often can be found in Ridgefield and Battle Ground; check its Facebook page for more information.
