SAN FRANCISCO — It was a cold and wet afternoon as I strolled down forlorn Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley. A countercultural thoroughfare in the late 1960s, the street retained next to nothing of its once colorful flower power. But all of sudden, I smelled incense and heard a recording of Messiaen’s psychedelic “Turangalila-Symphonie.” Annapurna, the head shop that opened in 1969 at the same time as the historic demonstrations at the now boarded-up People’s Park, has survived.
The combination of this specific smell and music, so familiar from my student days here, acted like some kind of nostalgia drug. For an astonishing moment, I was transported back in time. But even more mysterious, it was music, scent and color that recently brought me to the Bay Area in the first place.
The San Francisco Symphony happened to be experimenting with scents in the concert hall for Scriabin’s “Prometheus, The Poem of Fire,” a 20-minute symphony that includes solo piano. The mystical Russian composer experienced synesthesia, the neurological condition in which the brain involuntarily associates one sense with another. Scriabin’s brain — as had, coincidentally, Messiaen’s — ascribed specific colors to specific harmonies.
In “Prometheus,” Scriabin went so far as to include a part for “color organ,” a newly invented instrument that projected colored lights, in his 1910 score. But instead of one color blending into another for dramatic effect, the result was murky gray. Technology has evolved, and Jean-Yves Thibaudet, San Francisco Symphony’s soloist, had long dreamed of adding more senses to the Scriabin mix. Why not scent? The orchestra’s music director, Esa-Pekka Salonen, was intrigued.