Leave it to the Italians to create spectacular dishes with the most ordinary staples.
Pangrattato is no more than pulverized stale bread revived in good olive oil, lots of garlic and a few seasonings. Thanks to Lynne Rossetto Kasper’s stories of thrifty Sicilian cooks, I no longer take breadcrumbs for granted. They’ve become the prime ingredient when adding crunch, punch, complexity and robustness to the simplest recipes.
It goes without saying that the best breadcrumbs are homemade. Easy and thrifty, this just means stockpiling the heels and crusts of good bread in a paper bag. Store them at room temperature for several days; it’s OK if they harden. A variety of loaves add flavor and interest to the result. Buzz them in the food processor until they’re the texture of coarse sand and store them in an airtight container at room temperature. I use them often in meatloaf and stuffing and to top casseroles, hot dishes, salads and soups.
But my favorite use is Pangrattato, known as the “poor man’s Parmesan.” Simply pan-toast the breadcrumbs in plenty of good olive oil with garlic, a pinch of salt and red pepper flakes until golden, watching carefully so they don’t burn. The dish Pasta Pangrattato is said to have originated in southern Italy, where cooks would grate stale bread over pasta when they couldn’t afford cheese. There are a few variations — including a spicy version from Calabria — that families have passed down from generation to generation.
These lovely crumbs make a wonderful alternative to aged cheeses; they cost little and they’re vegan and perfect for those who need to eat dairy-free. Be warned: From the moment the Pangrattato is done, you won’t be able to stop nibbling these morsels right out of the pan.