SEATTLE — What do you want when you go to a restaurant? The answer might seem obvious: You want someone to make you delicious food, you want to be taken care of, you don’t want to even think about the dirty dishes. You want it all to happen in a timely manner, and you’re willing to pay for the privilege — as long as, in the end, it feels worth it.
What if you can’t make a reservation, and instead, you’re likely to have to wait in a line? What if — rather than being guided to a table, presented with a menu, and having your needs attended to from drinks through dessert — you wait with whatever degree of patience to place your order, then give your name or receive a number, pay up front and fend for yourself when it comes to procuring seating?
OK, you say, but that’s not really a restaurant — that’s a pizza place, or a bakery or a cafe. If not always tablecloths, real restaurants at least have table service.
Not anymore — welcome to the era of counter service. Love it or hate it, a slew of new Seattle restaurants are embracing this traditionally down-market model, while upping the ante in the food they make.