Tomatoes are non-negotiable in Americanized versions of chicken alla cacciatora, but it’s a different story in Umbria, a region in central Italy.
Instead of tomatoes, the rustic chicken braise gets its flavor from lemon, olives, garlic and herbs.
Capers also are customary, but for this recipe in our book “Tuesday Nights Mediterranean,” which features weeknight-friendly meals from the region, we omit the briny flower buds and use pancetta to build rich, savory depth, browning the onion in the fat from the cured pork. Deglazing the pan with dry white wine adds bright acidity, and scraping up the browned bits from the pan ensures every bit of flavor makes its way into the dish.
Garlic, rosemary and olives provide a savory backbone for the sauce, and strips of lemon zest infuse the dish with subtle citrusy notes. Use a sharp vegetable peeler to plane off wide, long strips of zest from the fruit; a sharp Y-style vegetable peeler is the best tool for the job, but try to remove only the colored peel, not the bitter white pith just underneath.