One pillar of Milk Street’s approach to cooking is contrast — we pair tangy flavors with sweet, and creamy textures with crispy ones. And that’s why we often use quick pickles in our cooking; they cover many of those bases at once.
In this recipe from our book “Tuesday Nights Mediterranean,” which features weeknight-friendly meals from the region, we tuck quick-pickled sliced onion and tomato into vegetarian pita sandwiches inspired by an Iraqi-Israeli hand food called sabich.
Traditionally, fried eggplant is stuffed into a pita bread along with tomato-cucumber salad, hard-cooked egg, hummus and amba, a pickled mango condiment. For our much-simplified version, we broil slices of za’atar-seasoned eggplant, and briefly soak sliced red onion and tomato in vinegar and salt with a little sugar to substitute the sweet and sour amba.
The briny vegetables balance the savory meatiness of roasted eggplant, and their crispiness adds textural interest to what otherwise would be a soft filling. A harissa-spiked tahini sauce adds spice and richness.