Juneteenth — or June 19 — is a federal holiday to commemorate the end of slavery in the United States.
On June 19, 1865, Union troops arrived in Galveston, Texas, to tell the enslaved that the Emancipation Proclamation had been signed two years prior and that they were free. They first celebrated freedom with church gatherings. It then evolved into outdoor festivals with barbecue, red foods and baseball, said Leni Sorensen, a chef and culinary historian living in Crozet, Va. Even though she isn’t sure about the origin of the red, others have theories: Red represented the blood of enslaved people who died or it was linked to hibiscus, a native West African flower used to make reddish-purple tea.
“The significance of the color red is debatable and it could be symbolic,” she said. “It’s hard to know.”
A Juneteenth celebration brought together bakers and butchers for a community potluck of the best dishes. Traditional fare included: barbecue beef and goat, pheasant, catfish, shell beans (lima, butter, black-eyed peas), greens such as collards and mustard, traditional cornbread, red velvet cake, sweet potato pie, watermelon, vinegar-based hot sauces, barbecue sauces and sweet pickles. In Waco, Texas, Big Red soda was a popular drink for Juneteenth. Sorensen disclosed her own beverage of raspberry zinger tea bags, soda water and six to eight hibiscus blossoms which color the concoction.