Dark dining began in Paris in the late 1990s, then spread to Zurich, where a blind clergyman used it to convey his sensory experience to those who could see. This led to more dark restaurants in Europe, North America and Asia. Only a few of these establishments are in the United States. One of them is the Black Forest Dark Dining Experience at Wyld Pines in east Vancouver.
Owner Jim Rice dined in the dark while visiting Las Vegas with his family.
“I was the naysayer,” Rice said. “But I did it because the family wanted to do it. I was into it in about 15 minutes, and I was blown away. There were no phones, so we talked to each other the entire time and had debates about the different courses.”
Rice returned from Las Vegas with one thing on his mind: starting a dark dining experience at his business Wyld Pines. This new concept started in spring 2023. The Washington State Liquor and Cannabis Board shut it down soon after. Wyld Pines is the first (and only) restaurant in Washington offering dark dining. State rules require establishments that serve alcohol to have adequate lighting so wait staff can verify ages against ID cards, as well see if customers are becoming overly inebriated. Rice worked with the board to modify his operations to comply with state law. The dining room remains lit, but customers wear goggles that keep out the light.
I went on a Thursday night with a brave friend who agreed to try this odd food experiment with me. Reservations are required, so I made one about a week in advance. The restaurant asked if we had food allergies, dietary needs or preferences, since we wouldn’t be able to see what we would be eating. We entered Wyld Pines, a Pacific Northwest-themed public house decorated with pine trees, bears and sasquatches wearing sunglasses. Our server led us to the dark-dining door, gave us blackout goggles, and instructed us to put our hands on the shoulders of the person in front of us. We slowly snaked into the dining area, felt around for the table and chairs, and sat. The menu is a set seven-course meal ($70 per person) that Chef Brandon Edgerton has carefully crafted for those dining in the dark.