Even though the trees are in pots, roots may also be wrapped with burlap. If they are, remove any twine wrapped around the top of the burlap. The twine could cut into the bark and restrict growth. Fold the burlap back from the top of the ball and cut it off after placing the trees into their holes. If left on the top of the soil ball, the burlap could wick moisture out of the root ball.
If there are several layers of roots around the soil ball, cut or loosen some of the roots on the bottom so they will grow more directly into surrounding soil.
Dig holes one-and-a-half to two times the diameter of the soil ball. The hole should be the same depth as the root ball. Use the original soil to backfill around the roots. Plant trees at the same depth they are growing in the pots.
You can usually get by without staking small trees, but larger ones should be staked. I use 2-inch diameter wooden stakes available from most full-service nurseries and garden stores. One stake is usually enough, but I sometimes use two in windy areas. Drive stakes into the ground at least 18 inches so they are sturdy.
The best material for tying stakes to trees is a plastic chain link material, which is very easy to fasten. Wrap ties loosely around the tree and stake at about chest height. It is important for the trees to be able to move in the wind. If tied so tightly that they cannot move, trees will not develop strength to stand on their own.
If left on too long, almost any tie will begin to cut into the bark as the tree grows. Any indentation in the bark will weaken the tree and make it more susceptible to storm damage. Tree roots will develop enough in one growing season to stand on their own. You can probably remove the stakes and ties next spring.
I have had best success using a coated fertilizer such as Osmocote at planting time. This time-release fertilizer provides a small, constant supply of nutrients for several months.
A 1-inch layer of bark or other mulch will prevent 90 percent of weed growth. Place a minimum 3-foot diameter circle of mulch around each tree. This area should be kept free of weeds and grass. New trees will grow at about twice the rate if they do not have to compete with grass or weeds for water and nutrients. Water daily for the first two weeks and weekly for the rest of the summer.
Do not remove any branches from the lower part of deciduous tree trunks. If allowed to grow for two or three years, these branches feed the lower trunk area so it will grow in diameter more quickly. Shorten lower branches which grow beyond 6 inches. They can be removed after the third or fourth growing season.
