After planting, containers should be placed where they get some protection from the coldest winter temperatures such as under a patio cover or roof overhang. They can be placed in more exposed locations by the end of February.
In most cases, only one variety of bulb should be planted in containers of 6 inches diameter or smaller. Larger containers may have two or more varieties. Plant taller varieties in the center with shorter ones around the edges.
If the soil mix does not contain fertilizer, add a timed-release fertilizer such as Osmocote. Water thoroughly until a little moisture runs out the drain holes. Water again when soil dries on top.
Smaller containers can be forced into bloom in January and February. Flower bulbs need a minimum of 12 weeks at temperatures of 40 to 45 degrees (refrigerator temperature). For early bloom, place containers in a refrigerator that does not contain fruits and vegetables. Check frequently and water as needed to keep soil moist. When you notice the roots start to protrude from the bottom drain holes, they can be brought inside into bright sunlight. They will begin to grow within a week and bloom in about two weeks.
Containers left outside will bloom about the same time as those planted in the ground. Bulbs can be left in large containers for a second year of bloom. Plant annual flowers such as petunias or marigolds between bulbs and trim the bulb leaves by about half. Then remove leaves when they turn yellow or brown
All daffodils do well in containers. Dwarf daffodils do well in smaller pots or as edging for larger containers.
The shorter triumph tulips are better than taller varieties. They are more in scale for close up viewing. Grape hyacinths make a nice edging.
Hyacinths are an excellent choice for containers because they are very fragrant.
Amaryllis and paper white narcissus are two bulbs that can be bloomed in pots during the winter without any pre-cooling treatment.
