‘A Little Slice of Heaven’: Day trip to Kalama reveals charms aplentySubscriber Exclusive

Guests can sit indoors or enjoy their goodies on the front porch or at picnic benches in the grass. We chose a bench near a burbling water feature and slurped down a mocha (my husband) and huckleberry cappuccino (me). They were served with chocolate-covered espresso beans, an unexpected flourish that tickled my fancy.

Fully caffeinated, we headed to Kalama’s downtown, where shops and businesses line North First Street. We had to drive a circuitous route, because the freeway runs north-south through the town, dividing it in two. Drivers can cross under the freeway on Elm Street or over the freeway on Oak Street.

Antique stores galore

I was eager to hunt for treasures in Kalama’s many antique stores, which I’d often spied from the freeway. Kalama Vintage Warehouse caught my eye and I spent a happy half-hour browsing the thoughtfully curated collection of vintage, antique and new items.

We strolled up First Street, admiring the tidy storefronts and peeking in windows. I saw locals sharing lunch at Willie Dick’s First Street Tap House, staff waiting tables at the Lucky Dragon Chinese restaurant and motorcycles sporting bright American flags parked outside Poker Pete’s Pizza. I pressed my nose to the glass at Ella Grey, an upscale gift and home décor store in a red brick Greek Revival building. Tragically for me, the store was closed for the day. Instead, I spent a few moments admiring the mural on the south wall of the Kalama Public Library. The mural, designed by Portland artist Tatyana Ostapenko, depicts a tree-studded riverfront realm like Kalama, but with magical flourishes like Bigfoot and a unicorn.

Shopping whetted my appetite, so we drove to McMenamins Kalama Harbor Lodge, the hotel, restaurant and pub that dominates Kalama’s scenic waterfront. It’s hard to resist the riverside seating, especially on a sunny day when the lush landscaping is in full bloom. The wait can be painfully long but the spectacular view is worth it. We saw a many-tiered sternwheeler docked offshore and a massive cargo ship anchored downriver. After our meal, we strolled to the sandy beach and sat in the sun for a while before walking to the nearby Westin Amphitheater in grassy Marine Park, where locals gather to hear summer concerts and see movies. (For the full calendar of summer events, including the Kalama Harbor Lodge Brewfest on Aug. 27, visit portofkalama.com.)

Totem poles and parks

On our way to the amphitheater, we passed Kalama’s iconic totem poles with vibrantly painted faces, fins, hands, claws and paws. The poles were carved decades ago by members of the Lelooska family, which operates the Lelooska Foundation Cultural Center in Ariel. Two totem poles now stand in Kalama and one pole is in Ariel for repairs. At one time, Kalama boasted the tallest totem pole carved from a single tree in the Western hemisphere, Polacek said. The 140-foot totem pole is still there, it’s just sideways, resting on the ground while it’s being restored. Eventually it will hang from the ceiling of the two-story Mountain Timber Market, Polacek said, watching over people as they purchase locally made goods.

After our riverfront exercise, we were hankering for shakes from the Burger Bar. My husband ordered a strawberry shake but they were out of my preferred flavor — chocolate malt — so I ordered a soft-serve cone instead. The server swirled the ice cream so high that it toppled over. He finally achieved success with a cup.

We took our treats to the small but lovely Peter D. Toteff Memorial Park, at the intersection of Elm and First streets. The park has a gazebo and new children’s play area but its most beguiling feature is tiny China Creek, which flows through the park between buttercup-strewn banks. We sat by the stream, allowing its lively burble to drown out the rumble of traffic on Interstate 5. On the way back to our car, I paused between the stone lions that guard the park’s entry. They seemed to whisper, “This is our town and we’re proud to watch over it.”