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News / Life / Food

Salad recalls chef’s South Carolina roots

By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
Published: June 8, 2022, 6:05am
2 Photos
Chef/Restaurateur Alexander Smalls attends the Northside Center for Child Development 70th Anniversary Spring Gala, on April 27, 2016, in New York City.
Chef/Restaurateur Alexander Smalls attends the Northside Center for Child Development 70th Anniversary Spring Gala, on April 27, 2016, in New York City. (Andrew Toth/Getty Images/TNS) (Gretchen McKay/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette) Photo Gallery

“This salad is, for me, about flavor, texture and childhood memories,” chef Alexander Smalls says in his cookbook, “Meals, Music, and Muses: Recipes From My African American Kitchen.”

The cookbook is a tribute to his South Carolina heritage and the music that inspired the former professional opera singer.

A childhood favorite, it was on the menu when he opened The Cecil, New York City’s first Afro-Asian-American restaurant, in 2013.

It honors his father and grandfather and the pears they grew in their backyard in Spartanburg, S.C.

The beans add protein and the pears a touch of elegance. A lemony vinaigrette ties it all together.

It’s a versatile recipe that can be made ahead to be dressed later, and it easily goes from an appetizer to a full meal depending on the size.

I halved the ingredients for smaller portions.

Field Greens, Poached Pear and Black-Eyed Peas Salad

Serves 8. From “Meals, Music, and Muses: Recipes From My African American Kitchen” by Alexander Smalls (Flatiron, $35)

For salad

4 ripe but firm Bosc pears, halved and cored

2 cups red wine

1 cup sugar

2 cinnamon sticks

2 star anise pods

1½ cups halved grape tomatoes

1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced

2 cups thinly sliced seedless cucumbers

2 pounds mixed salad greens

2½ cups cooked black-eye peas

For vinaigrette

½ cup Champagne vinegar

1 tablespoon each fresh lemon, lime and orange juice

1½ teaspoons minced shallot

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1½ teaspoons honey

Salt and pepper

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Combine pears, wine, sugar, cinnamon sticks, star anise and 1 cup water in a medium saucepan.

Bring to boil over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low and poach until pears are tender but not mushy, about 35 minutes. Let pears cool to room temperature, then cover and chill for at least several hours or up to overnight.

Prepare vinaigrette: In a food processor, combine vinegar, citrus juices, shallot, mustard, mayo, honey and a pinch of salt and pepper. Pulse until smooth, about 30 seconds.

With the machine running, add oil in a thin stream and process until emulsified. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Use immediately or store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to three days.

Remove pears from poaching liquid and cut lengthwise into -inch-thick slices. Reserve poaching liquid for another use.

In a large bowl, toss grape tomatoes, onion, cucumbers and greens to combine. Add black-eyed peas and vinaigrette (a little at a time, until greens are lightly coated), and toss.

Divide among 8 chilled plates. Garnish with poached pears and serve immediately.

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