Each November in Sardinia, purple crocus blossoms blanket the rolling fields. It’s a striking sight against a lush green backdrop. Those flowers also provide what locals call “red gold,” or saffron.
Saffron is one of the defining flavors of the Italian island. First cultivated by the Phoenicians, saffron now colors and perfumes numerous dishes, from little gnocchi called malloreddus to gelato and zeppole, a fried dough eaten at Carnival.
Naturally, this being Italy, it also flavors pasta — at times both the noodles and sauce — and we were particularly taken with a vegetarian one at the Sante Rughe restaurant in Gavoi. A few threads of saffron were simmered in milk, which then was mixed with salty ricotta for a rich, no-cook sauce to coat orecchiette.
The version in our book “COOKish,” which limits recipes to just six ingredients without sacrificing flavor, comes together quickly.