It’s a grand time to be a vegetable lover. Local supermarkets highlight fresh, crisp greens and slender summer squashes from nearby farms. Signs advertise weekend farmers markets selling heirloom tomatoes, baskets of rainbow carrots, peppers and farm-fresh eggs. Come August, enterprising teens sell sweet corn from makeshift stands.
Overflowing stalls at farmers markets create the illusion that folks in the United States have always enjoyed maitake mushrooms, leeks and fingerling potatoes; older cookbooks tell a different story.
A 1997 community cookbook tucked on a shelf in our cabin near Galena, Ill., offers a glimpse into vegetable cooking of the era. “Cooking With A’ Peal” features mostly frozen vegetables flavored with tinned soup and shredded cheese. Only a few recipes call for fresh vegetables, mostly cucumbers and carrots. No doubt there’s “a’ peal” in the readiness of bags of shucked peas and frozen broccoli florets.
To lure cooks away from frozen vegetables, fresh vegetable recipes need to deliver big taste and texture.