Chiles, fresh or dried, sweet or killer-hot, have been central to my food career for more than 25 years. I didn’t fully realize how the kick and sass of spice permeates my home life until recently. Just for fun, I counted all the containers of chile-spiked condiments in my refrigerator. More than 10 — everything from tubs of Korean gochujang to sliced jalapenos, Mexican chipotle paste and pepperoncini.
The spice drawer continues the story with more than 17 different options for upping the ante on home-cooked or takeout dinners. The freezer boasts bags of roasted green and red chiles from New Mexico, habaneros from the neighbor’s garden, and all manner of jalapeno, serrano and finger peppers from our market days.
Curious, no Sriracha in sight. I prefer less sweet, less vinegary, more savory condiments and hot sauces. Indonesian sambal oelek, North African harissa and Mexican salsa macha, for example.
Tops on my current heat list: spicy chile crisp. This not-too-hot combination — red chile flakes, toasted shallots, oil, Sichuan pepper and a touch of sugar — tastes so good I eat it on a spoon.