Cheese is caught in the crossfire.
The European Union claimed the United States has been illegally subsidizing the aircraft manufacturer Boeing. The United States said the EU has been illegally subsidizing Airbus to the detriment of companies like Boeing. The Trump administration imposed tariffs on about $7.5 billion in European Union goods. And on Oct. 18, they went into effect, prices skyrocketing on things like aircraft products, wine, olive oil and some cheeses.
Cocktail parties, holiday gatherings, gift baskets: November begins the most cheese-intensive part of the year. It is, say many food industry experts, the worst time for an additional 25 percent tariff on products that in many cases are already subject to tariffs. Parmigiano-Reggiano, Romano, Roquefort, manchego, Swiss and cheddar — the lineup of affected cheeses reads like a greatest-hits list, many of these imported cheeses without an obvious or equivalent American corollary.
Consumers lose with the tariffs because prices will go up, says Janet Fletcher, publisher of the blog Planet Cheese. And yet, because it will narrow the price differential between domestic cheeses and similar imports — American artisan cheeses, usually small and “boutique,” have tended to carry a higher price point due to lack of economies of scale — this development could make people give American cheeses a new look.
And that would only be the latest development in favor of American cheese. Last month, a blue cheese produced by Rogue Creamery in Oregon beat out 3,804 entries from 42 countries to take top honors at the 2019 World Cheese Awards in Bergamo, Italy. For the first time ever, an American cheese was named best in the world. With millennials finally putting Kraft singles out to pasture (they are purported to have “killed” individually wrapped cheese food in the way they have golf and breakfast cereal), the words “American cheese” are no longer cause for derision and eye-rolling.