The best summer salads are mere suggestions: Buy what looks good and fresh and calls to you at the market, cook it simply or not at all, season it well (combining it with pantry staples that lend pops of flavor) and eat up. A classic of the genre is the ni?oise, which in its most traditional form allows for no cooked vegetables at all but has been widely interpreted (some would say bastardized) to include not only boiled potatoes and green beans but such apparent travesties as seared fresh tuna instead of canned.
One of Sarah Copeland’s salad recipes in her lovely new cookbook evokes the cooking-from-the-market spirit, not the purism associated with the classic. Her combination — which she doesn’t call a ni?oise, so don’t worry — depends on a trilogy of green beans, potatoes and hard-cooked eggs, dressed with vinegar and oil and punched up by green olives, capers and herbs.
The ingredients are easy to cook, but a little bit of care takes the salad to the next level. Steam the eggs so the whites aren’t rubbery and the yolks stay creamy. Check the potatoes often while they’re boiling so they yield to a fork but aren’t waterlogged and/or mushy. Boil the green beans just until they darken, and stop their cooking in an ice-water bath so they reach that perfect crisp-tenderness.
It’s all downhill from there: Dress the salad, arrange it on a platter, pour a glass of wine and eat outside. If you’re lucky, you might even feel a breeze.