Nuestra Mesa elevates Latin cuisine

Why: Nuestra Mesa has been serving the flavors of Latin America since 2010 in historic downtown Camas. In a region where many restaurants prefer to focus on Pacific Northwest-inspired cuisine, Nuestra Mesa has taken a different approach, consistently focusing on a truly different cuisine, which is at the heart of owners Todd and Tania Moravitz.

Atmosphere: The space offers family and bar dining in a comfortable, casual decor that combines rich colors and subtle lighting. Tables and chairs sit atop a beautiful wood floor. A drop-down grid feature adds interest above, and an original brick wall on the bar side of the space lends a well-established presence.

What I tried: My dining companions and I tried the queso fundido with chips and blue corn tortillas, the crispy bruselas, the nopales salad, the ora king salmon entree and a pescado pastor taco.

The queso fundido consists of melted Oaxacan and jack cheeses topped with black beans, salsa and chopped cilantro. The house-made chips and tortillas were fresh and warm. The cheese cooled quickly and solidified, which was problematic in that it is served, dipping-style, with a spoon. Although the spoon worked well to scoop the beans and salsa, it was useless on the cheese.

The crispy bruselas combines charred Brussels sprouts and chorizo. A poached egg rests atop the mixture, and house-made chicharrones and Tajin bring a crunchy and sweet-tangy presence. I enjoyed the cabbage flavor of the sprouts with the spicy meatiness of the chorizo. The crunchy, fried chicharrones are used like croutons on a salad. Overall, this was an appetizing and interesting dish for its flavor, variety and creative use of ingredients with the sprouts.

The nopales salad is a cactus salad that introduces pickled red onion, tomato, avocado salsa, chile oil and cilantro pesto to the cactus, which alone is quite bland. Each ingredient was distinguishable amid the salad and together created a healthful-tasting and mellow combination.

The salmon entree offers a goodly sized portion of fish cooked to perfection. Alongside is a mole Pipián sauce, chile-rubbed delicata squash slices and a portion of celery cilantro salad topped with pepitas. The sides to the salmon were mild and absent butter and salt, which are typically paired with salmon. The entree presented a different region of flavors.

The petite taco is presented flat with a portion of marinated striped bass, mango pineapple salsa, avocado puree and cilantro. The result was very satisfying, although I thought a bit pricey for its size.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The vegetable mesadilla is a quesadilla made with a seasonal rotation of roasted vegetables and diner’s choice of red or green salsa. The roasted beet salad — comprised of red and yellow beets, arugula, queso fresco, orange, and pepitas topped with Tajin cream and micro cilantro — sounded delicious. Soups include a chicken poblano chowder and a pozole. The cochinita pibil entree is a Yucatán-style braised Cascade Farms pork shank with anchiote and orange juice sauce served with jalapeño mashed potatoes and habanero pickled onion. This dish comes with corn tortillas, as well. For anyone looking for something they are more familiar with, chile relleno is on the menu. Taco options are served on macienda blue corn tortillas and include veggie, pollo tinga (chicken) and panceta de cerdo (pork belly).

Other observations: The waitstaff is polite and attentive, the atmosphere is pleasant, and the food is one-of-a-kind in Clark County.

Cost: Dinner appetizers are $3 to $15. Salads are $10 and $11. Soup is $5 and $6 a cup and $10 and $11 for a bowl. Entrees range from $15 to $27. Tacos are served a la carte for $5.25 each. Lunch appetizers are $3 to $11. Salads cost $10 to $12. Soup is $5 for a cup and $10 for a bowl. Entrees range from $13 to $15. Tacos are $4 to $5.