Why: WareHouse ’23 is still going strong in spite of the new waterfront development just west of the restaurant. The restaurant provides a unique experience that embodies the essence of our region’s roots, which inspires the menu sure to please a variety of appetites.
What I tried: My dining companion and I started our meal with the Cajun Dusted Beef Bites. We ordered the Herbed Cheese and Fig Pizza and the house-made chicken and dumplings for our entrees. For dessert, we had the Chocolate and Toasted Coconut Panna Cotta.
The beef bites were more of an individual appetizer than one to be shared. The cubes of steak are accompanied by crispy onions and bacon crema with pieces of Brussels sprouts mixed in. The crema is reminiscent of Alfredo sauce and Parmesan. I searched for the Cajun dust on the steak bites, but it was as elusive as fairy dust. Some of the steak cubes in the small portion were chewy. The appetizer seemed sort of like a deconstructed soup.
The pizza and the chicken and dumplings, on the other hand, were home runs.
The chicken and dumplings were comfort food at its best.
The thin, artisan-crust pizza — topped with spinach, roasted garlic, pickled shallot, sweetie drops (which are tiny red peppers), oh-so-sweet balsamic, petite figs and cheese — moved into the top spot on my favorite pizzas list. It was such a surprise to find a top-notch pie at a place that does not specialize in pizza.
Dining Out Guide: WareHouse ’23
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to close Monday to Saturday. Happy hour is 3 to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close daily. Brunch is served on Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Where: 100 Columbia St., Vancouver.
Contact: 360-750-7256 or WareHouse1923.com.
Health score: WareHouse ’23 received a score of 60 on May 22, 2018, triggering a follow-up inspection the next month by Clark County Public Health, which found the problems had been resolved. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
The panna cotta was decadent. It was the perfect bit of sweet, with toasted coconut on top and a deep chocolate middle with velvety pudding. The dessert demonstrates that coconut can aspire to be more than a simple, named ingredient.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Small plates include street tacos, baby back ribs, Knife and Fork Chowder, as well as clam strips. I thought the 1923 fries made with porcini dust, alder smoked salt, pepper, bacon and boursin sauce sounded tasty, as did the Charred Broccoli and Kale Salad made with arugula, golden raisins, almonds, quinoa, grapefruit and goat cheese. Entrees include a Rough Chopped Chuck Burger, Tri Tip Pot Roast, Shrimp Hot Pot, Parmesan Pesto Linguine and Whiskey Cherry Steelhead served with creamy chive fingerling potatoes and seasonal vegetables.
Atmosphere: The restaurant is perched on the edge of the Columbia River, just west of the Interstate 5 bridge. A giant mast that reaches to the top of the high ceiling creates the feeling of being aboard an old ship. With wraparound windows that look out onto the water, the view from any seat adds to the illusion. A game room and a large separate dining room is available for private parties. Lighting is subdued but the many windows let natural light into the space.
Other observations: The waitstaff is more casual than professional, friendly and mostly attentive. The space tends to be on the loud side; my dining companion and I asked to move to a quieter area because the noise made intimate conversation a challenge. We were quickly relocated without question. Live music is Wednesday through Saturday. Bridge City Ballroom offers dance instruction on Monday nights. Event space is available to reserve and can accommodate 350 guests.
Cost: Small plates are $4 to $13. Salads cost $7 to $14 and are available in a side or entree size. Soup of the day is $5 for a cup and $7.50 for a bowl. Big plates range from $10 to $25. At lunch, small plates top out at a couple of bucks and big plates top out at $5. Sandwiches are available at lunch and range from $11 to $17. More pizza options are available on the lunch menu and cost $8 to $17. Sunday Brunch items cost $7 to $19.
