Why: Years ago, when Kooky Chicken opened in a space formerly occupied by a Subway sandwich shop, it was all about the crispy fried chicken. The restaurant has since added a separate pho menu, bringing beef, shrimp and vegetable noodle soup into the mix.
What I tried: I ordered the crispy chicken burger and the vegetable pho and my dining companion had the beef pho with eye round and meatballs. We also tried the potstickers.
The potstickers are made with a thin dough and fried, resulting in a somewhat dry exterior. This was easily remedied by dipping them in the accompanying teriyaki sauce.
The chicken burger is made with a piece of crispy fried chicken breast complemented by lettuce, tomato, and bread-and-butter pickles with Kooky sauce on a fresh, soft bun. The pickles brought this appetizing sandwich all together. The Kooky sauce is a sweet mayonnaise-based sauce, which worked well with the burger’s ingredients. Hand-cut french fries are served alongside the burger.
Dining out guide: Kooky Chicken
Hours: 10:45 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Where: 8606 E. Mill Plain Blvd., Vancouver.
Contact: 360-254-1950 or KookyChicken.com
Health score: Kooky Chicken received a score of 25 on Jan. 14. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
My dining companion enjoyed the pho and gave it a 6 out of 10. The meatballs are heavily processed, but the accompanying sprouts, basil and jalapenos were garden fresh.
The vegetable pho has a goodly amount of vegetables paired with tofu and noodles. I did not find the broth as aromatic as the beef pho, though I liked the soup, which would be comforting on a cold day.
Atmosphere: Kooky occupies the same space as it always has, though, unlike my last visit, all remnants of Subway are gone. The wall dividing it from the space next door has come down, creating a much larger footprint and an additional large dining area. That side orients toward pho. The other side has a fast-food vibe and focuses on the chicken.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Chicken strips, chicken and waffles, a bacon cheeseburger and a mushroom and Swiss burger are available. The Klucker consists of 10 assorted chicken pieces. Chicken finds it way to the Vietnamese menu offerings in the form of noodle soup and a grilled chicken banh mi, as well as Vietnamese-style fried chicken wings with caramelized fish sauce, and Kooky gizzards. Pho comes in eye round, meatball, flank and tendon options. Shrimp noodle soup is available, as is a spicy beef noodle soup. Appetizers include salad rolls, Krispy Egg Rolls, and fried shrimp. Sauce options include Kooky, Krazy Hot, BBQ, ranch, honey mustard and maple. Beverages include boba tea and Pepsi products, but not beer or other alcohol.
Other observations: Fried chicken is made to order so it’s not fast, but it is worth the wait. Service is friendly and attentive. The atmosphere is likely what you will expect. Pho prices are comparable with other pho establishments.
Cost: Appetizers are $4.50 to $7.95. Chicken sections are $5.50 to $18.95. The KC Krispy Chicken salad is $9.95 and the grilled chicken banh mi costs $5.50. Pho options are $9.50 to $9.95.
