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News / Life / Clark County Life

Food & Drink: Northwood makes good on gemütlichkeit

By Rachel Pinsky
Published: September 28, 2018, 6:00am
4 Photos
North Bank Beer Week event at Northwood Public House & Brewery.
North Bank Beer Week event at Northwood Public House & Brewery. (Rachel Pinsky) Photo Gallery

If you spend any time with Northwood Public House & Brewery owner Eric Starr, you will hear the word gemutlichkeit many times. And, you will find yourself saying it repeatedly. There isn’t a word for it in English. Starr defines it as “A feeling, an atmosphere, an authentic sense of communion, liveliness and warmth.”

My first visit to Northwood Public House & Brewery was for Northwood’s North Bank Beer Week event. It was a Wednesday night, summer was turning into fall and the days were getting shorter. On my drive to Battle Ground, the rain was falling so hard I could barely see through the windshield. I didn’t expect many people to brave this horrid weather to get a beer on a weeknight.

When I walked through the door at Northwood, I felt like I had just landed in an alternate universe. The place was packed with people acting as if it wasn’t Wednesday night and the weather was just fine. The crowd was filled with local brewers (Sunny Parsons of Heathen, Wally Wakeman of Brother Ass, Sherman Gore of Brothers Cascadia) and regulars, all squeezed around the bar, raising pints and having a good time. The gemutlichkeit was flowing at the same rate as local brews were being poured into pints. A chef was preparing elaborate charcuterie boards as a band played. Dave and Mitchell Silagy were handing out samples of their highly addictive hot sauce.

I came back later that week to interview Starr. He told me, “When you came in the other night, the gemutlichkeit was running high, and it will be tonight. That’s what we want.” He promised that Northwood’s Fifth Annual Oktoberfest would be a gemutlichkeit-filled event. Traditional German food like sausages, schnitzel, pretzels and a whole roasted pig on Sunday will be served Oct. 6 and 7 at this family-friendly event. The room will be filled with the unusual sounds of Those Darn Accordions. Starr found this band through his friend, Terry Currier of Music Millennium, many years ago. The first year they played an Oktoberfest for Starr was when he was the marketing director at Portland Brewing Company. They were paid in kegs of beer and pairs of Doc Martens.

Northwood opened in March 2014, and Starr was feeling nostalgic. “We’re at the five-year mark. Everyone said, ‘You made it through one year, let’s see if you make it through five.’ ”

He told me the stories of the patron saints of the bar — Starr’s dad and grandfather; Pinky Myler; Lisa Lepine; Ottomar Rudolf and Al Enriques. Lepine was the one who helped Starr find bands. She also found Janet Julian, a Portland folk artist who painted the dreamy images on the left side of the house. Julian’s paintings depict Kochab, the Guardian of the North, a deity with a long white beard and a pointy blue hat; a hop god holding an unusual staff; a Bavarian goddess with a pretzel and a beer stein; and Lepine depicted as a river mermaid.

At some point, I got hungry. Starr recommended the pierogies, then he told a story about how they got on the menu.

“The pierogies had a great story that’s not a great story anymore,” he explained. They used to be made by hand by members of a St. John the Baptist Ukrainian Orthodox Church in Portland, but the congregation stopped making them. Now they’re sourced from a commercial kitchen that Starr feels is as good. The story goes on while I take the side of my fork and slice into their crispy, firm pasta exterior and pierce the creamy potato center, careful to get some of the sauteed onions and sour cream that nest on top.

These pierogies tasted like they were handmade by a room of Ukrainian grandmas. I thought about them for days and wished I lived closer to Battle Ground.

I also had the lunch burger — a good, classic cheeseburger — and I tried a muffuletta sandwich made with meat and cheese from the North Bank Beer Week event. The ciabatta bread was fresh and the meat and cheese were high quality and delicious.

Northwood also has a great list of local craft beer (with beer made on site under the name Little Dipper Brewing Company).

Rachel Pinsky can be emailed at couveeats@gmail.com. You can follow her on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram @couveats.

If You Go

 What: Northwood Public House & Brewery.

 Where: 1401 S.E. Rasmussen Blvd., Battle Ground.

 Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

 Contact: 360-723-0937 or NorthwoodPublicHouse.com

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