Grains of Wrath Brewing outstanding

Why: Grains of Wrath Brewing recently opened in historic downtown Camas where an old auto body shop used to be. The brewing company has a variety of brews on tap with a regionally inspired food menu that offers some exclusive fare. The establishment is family-friendly and open seven days a week.

What I tried: My dining companions and I started with the chips and dips. I settled on the carnitas torta, and my dining companions had the steak frites and the burger with blue cheese and bacon added to it. To drink, I tried the Lulu, which is a tart, peach golden ale and the Meadowfoam Blond, described as a Belgian blond ale, with bubble gum, clove-toasted marshmallow with local meadowfoam honey. The Lulu was refreshing, not as tart as I expected, and I liked the peach essence that it possessed. The Meadowfoam Blond was complex. I immediately identified the clove. Its flavor alluded to the holidays.

The chips are made in-house and are very light and crispy. The accompanying dips consist of a pumpkin seed-based hummus sort of dip, a red spicy dip and a black bean dip. We found the most appetizing way to dip was to mix them in various combinations.

The torta was made on a brioche bun stacked with a tender, juicy section of meat and black bean puree, cottage cheese, chili aioli and jalapeño and carrot escabeche. It was unique and satisfying.

My dining companions found their entrees equally impressive. The burger was on par with other gourmet burgers, and the 6-ounce grilled hanger steak was smothered in an Italian herbed salsa verde and topped with crispy onions.

We all thoroughly enjoyed the hand-cut fries that accompanied each entree.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Roasted bone marrow, onion jam and grilled bread and the house-made chicken liver mousse served with Grand Central Bakery levain bread and pickled shallots are among the exclusive items. Soup of the day is available and there is roasted cauliflower, as well. The house-made white bean and quinoa patty veggie burger on a brioche bun with pumpkin seed spread and red onion pickled collards sounded delicious, as did the smoked steelhead and asparagus salad. The daily lunch special consists of the sandwich of the day with a cup of soup or a simple salad in a half or full size, or corn tortilla tacos, black beans, cojita, pork belly and escabeche on the side (diners may substitute steak or chicken for the pork belly for an additional $1). Kids menu choices include a grilled cheese sandwich, a burger, chicken fingers, and a fried chicken sandwich. For dessert, there is a chocolate stout cake and a lemon orange cheesecake with a spent grain crust and rhubarb compote. Grains of Wrath serves Hidden River Roasters Organic Mexican coffee.

Atmosphere: The old 1930s-era auto body shop has been smartly reimagined into a brewery and restaurant space. Sealed concrete floors, exposed ceiling beams and ducting, and industrial-style lighting make a fitting finish. The modern black-and-green color palette is paired with a generous amount of wood, which imparts a Pacific Northwest feel. Seating is abundant in the bar and family dining area, as well as outside on the patio where fire features add a touch of sophistication. Garage-style roll-up doors blur the line between interior and exterior portions of the space. 

Other observations: The service was spot on and fitting to the friendly, casual vibe of the comfortable atmosphere. The food exceeded my expectations and, in my opinion, the selection and quality of the house brews are among the best in Clark County. I will definitely be scheduling a return visit.

Cost: Snacks and small plates cost $4 to $10. Sandwiches and large plates are $13 to $18. Lunch specials are served daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and cost $9 to $11. Dessert is $5 and $7. Nonalcoholic beverages are $3. Brews cost $6 to $10.