Why: Gustav’s is a stand-alone, family-friendly, full-service restaurant that has been known for years on both sides of the river for its fresh, seasonal and traditional German cuisine with a little bit of Northwest influence. Gustav’s bar serves exclusive cocktails and a wide selection of German and local craft beers and wines.
What I tried: My dining companion and I started our meal with the famous Rheinlander Fondue, which combines deliciously creamy cheeses into a warm dipping sauce for an assortment of rye, sourdough and white bread cubes. We found it to be the perfect beginning to our meal and noted the cheese sauce was not too rich nor too filling.
I settled on the Bavarian meatballs served with house-made German potato salad and fresh greens. My dining companion had the sauerbraten, which comes with spatzle and red cabbage.
The pan-fried meatballs are made of veal and pork and sit atop a Spaten Optimator pepper cream sauce. The dark brew gives the sauce a rich flavor that complements the meat. Although they are meatballs, they appear more like meat patties, and the flavor and consistency was somewhere between meatballs and meatloaf. I thought they were very appetizing. The warm German potato salad was the perfect pairing for the meatballs, and the greens provided a garden-fresh element well suited for the entree.
Dining out guide: Gustav’s
• Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday. 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday. 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Happy hour is 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close Monday through Saturday and all day Sunday.
• Where: 1705 S.E. 164th Ave., Vancouver.
• Contact: 360-883-0222, gustavs.net
• Health score: Gustav’s received a score of 25 on June 11. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
The sauerbraten is made from select cuts of beef that are marinated for 5 days. The sauce is a close second to the flavor of the marinaded meat and adds just a touch of sauer to the overall profile. The meat reminded me of all those wonderful spices associated with the holidays. The spatzle and red cabbage completed the dish in tasty, German fashion.
We finished our meal with Gustav’s bread pudding made with croissants, raisins and sweet spices all baked together in a vanilla custard. A whiskey caramel sauce is drizzled over the bread pudding, with a dollop of whipped cream on the side. The result is sheer enjoyment for the palate. The bread was not soggy and the whiskey and caramel combined created a citrus effect.
Menu highlight beyond what I tried: Potato pancakes, cabbage rolls and shepherd’s pie are among the appetizers. Gustav’s proprietary sausages are handmade and include bier, brat-wurst, wild boar and weisswurst. Classic dishes include schnitzel. The chicken and mushrooms sounded delicious, as did the roasted pork which is made with slow roasted, apple cider-brined pork. Lentil and bier onion soup are on the menu along with a soup of the day.
Atmosphere: The casual atmosphere is spacious and comfortable. Thick wood beams are exposed throughout the restaurant and lend a chalet character to the construction. Carpeted floors bring warmth to the atmosphere, and seating is available at both tables and chairs and booths. Large, sturdy, chandeliers add a great room appeal to the space, and during cold months a big fireplace situated at one end of the large dining room adds a warm, lodge element. Outdoor patio seating is available during warm months.
Other observations: The service was professional and friendly. The food was a delightful journey into German cuisine, and the atmosphere unique and welcoming. This is one of those restaurants that leaves a good impression and gets better with each visit.
Cost: Fondue and appetizers cost $5.45 to $14.75. Salads are $6.25 to $12.75. Soups are $4.45 to $7.95. The Peasant’s Trio combines soup, salad and rosemary cheese bread for $10.95. Sausage entrees are $14.25 and $16.75. Pub classics range from $12.75 to $17.75.
