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News / Life / Clark County Life

Joy Teriyaki: Decor inviting, but food so-so

Temperature, texture of some items unappetizing

By Karen Livingston, for The Columbian
Published: May 5, 2017, 6:03am
3 Photos
A combination plate of spicy chicken, from left, pork and chicken katsu is served at Joy Teriyaki in Hazel Dell.
A combination plate of spicy chicken, from left, pork and chicken katsu is served at Joy Teriyaki in Hazel Dell. (Amanda Cowan/The Columbian) Photo Gallery

Why: Located in Hazel Dell, Joy Teriyaki occupies a corner space in a shopping center shared with Grocery Outlet. The restaurant has homemade sauces for its full menu of teriyaki choices and offers dine-in or take-out.

What I tried: My first choice was the curry chicken rice, but they were out of that. My second choice was the curry chicken udon, but they were out of that, as well. Basically, all curry options were not available at the time of my visit. So, I settled on the three-combo meal. I was going to include an egg roll with the combo, but they do not make them in-house, and I opted for the teriyaki beef, but they were out of that. The three options I ended up with were the spicy chicken, teriyaki pork and chicken katsu.

The spicy chicken is grilled, sliced cross-wise and drizzled with a spicy sauce. It was served tepid, almost cold, as though it had waited the longest for the rest of the combo’s elements to be combined for serving. The chicken was similar in taste and quality to other teriyaki restaurants I have visited. The “spicy chicken” on the menu seemed misleading, in that the “spicy” was just added in the form of a sauce instead of a marinade that actually makes the meat spicy.

The teriyaki pork consists of shaved, marinated pork. I found the flavor appetizing, but unfortunately, a significant amount of the portion was chewy, which I did not enjoy.

Dining Out review: Joy Teriyaki

Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Where: 9915 N.E. Hazel Dell Ave., Vancouver.

Telephone: 360-984-3634.

Health score: Joy Teriyaki has received a pre-opening inspection and is scheduled for a routine inspection in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

The chicken katsu was piping hot from the fryer and cut cross-wise into strips. Underneath the crispy, golden coating the chicken was a layer of white meat and rib meat, which had an odd texture. The meat was juicy and although it was not processed (chopped and formed), it had a similar texture.

The combo was served traditionally with two scoops of white rice and an iceberg lettuce and carrot salad with tangy poppyseed dressing.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Protein choices include chicken, beef, pork, salmon, prawns and tofu. Teriyaki beef short ribs are on the menu. The jalape?o chicken sounded intriguing. Sides include miso soup, prawn and vegetable tempura, gyozas, and pan-fried noodles. Tofu teriyaki, salmon teriyaki, shrimp stir fried vegetables, and a tofu bowl are listed among the gluten-free selections. Beverage choices include bottled Honest tea and Pepsi products.

Atmosphere: An impressive amount of detail is incorporated in the decor. An attractive wood wainscot is used in the dining area, where the walls are also trimmed in wood. Faux brick siding creates a backdrop for the menu behind the wood-sided order counter. Photos are hung throughout using a unique system that adds interest to the space. Wood-topped tables are paired with contemporary black chairs for seating that slides easily on the concrete floor. Ample amounts of natural light flood through perimeter windows, and fixtures are lantern inspired, casting a warm glow above tables. Orders are placed at the counter and delivered to tables. A trash and plate receptacle is available for diners to clear their dishes from tables when finished.

Other observations: I found the restaurant’s decor very appealing, but the level of cleanliness was out sync with it — especially the floor, which needed a good sweep and mop. The menu boards posted behind the counter are attractive and easy to comprehend, but then there is a large laminated menu on a stand on the counter that has items that are no longer available taped over. Beyond this, there are three more menus taped to the counter’s surface: one listing bowl options, one listing substitute options and one with gluten-free items. I was not sure if the display of so many menus was supposed to simplify the process, but I found they were redundant (except the gluten-free menu) and the ones located at the counter just cluttered up the space.

Cost: Teriyaki plates served with rice and salad are $7.85 to $11.99. Teriyaki bowls cost $4.99 to $6.99. Joy specials cost $7.75 to $10.99. Two-choice combo meal is $9.25 and three-choice combo meal is $11.75. House specials are $8.25 to $9.50. Sides are $1 to $5. White rice or salad may be replaced with brown rice, fried rice, noodles or vegetables for $1 to $1.50. Gluten-free options cost $5.99 to $9.99. Lunch specials are served 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and cost $6.99 and $7.20.

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