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News / Life / Clark County Life

Line & Lure delights with superior seafood

Restaurant inside Ilani Casino serves winning dishes

By Karen Livingston, for The Columbian
Published: June 30, 2017, 6:02am
5 Photos
The patio seating area is pictured at Line & Lure Seafood Kitchen and Tap in the Ilani Casino Resort.
The patio seating area is pictured at Line & Lure Seafood Kitchen and Tap in the Ilani Casino Resort. Alisha Jucevic/The Columbian Photo Gallery

Why: Line & Lure Seafood Kitchen and Tap is one of the many restaurants located inside the Ilani Casino Resort. The full-service family restaurant features regional dishes and a seafood boil along with local beer, wines and signature cocktails. In addition to an expansive indoor dining room and bar area, there is an outdoor patio complete with a fire pit and a 28-person private dining room that may be reserved.

What I tried: My dining companion and I started our meal with the crispy calamari and lemon and the lobster corn doggies. We decided to share the crab boil for our entree.

The calamari was hands down the best I have had in a long while. Each ring and baby calamari was lightly battered and tasted appetizingly fresh. Every bite was tender — not the least bit chewy or hard. The generous portion came with a delicious red pepper dipping sauce. It was well worth the $15.

The lobster corn doggies consisted of chunks of sweet lobster meat skewered and gently coated with a cornmeal batter and deep fried to a golden crisp. These were served with a sweet chili dipping sauce but they were also good dipped in the red pepper sauce. The order consisted of five individual doggies, each approximately 4 to 5 inches long — also well worth the $16.

Dining Out review: Line & Lure Seafood Kitchen and Tap

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Sunday.

Where: Ilani Resort & Casino, 3710 N.W. 319th St., Ridgefield.

Contact: 360-727-2141 or linelure.com

Health score: The Ilani Resort and Casino does not fall under the purview of Clark County Public Health. 

The boil is served in a large, silver, shallow serving bowl. Each boil option includes corn on the cob, roasted potatoes, a slab of onion, and andouille sausage along with the seafood and a half-lemon. They are also served with a large square of cornbread and honey-cayenne butter. The crab boil amounted to eight legs. I appreciated the authentic, simple combination of elements to the boil and found each possessed its own flavor that complimented the dish as a whole. I have never been an expert at eating crab legs, although it was challenging, I did enjoy it. The cornbread was average and the honey-cayenne butter kicked it up a notch.

Atmosphere: The hostess desk appears similar to a front desk at a boutique hotel with large capiz shell chandeliers above it. Driftwood tones of wood have been used throughout and are accented by oak trim. Most of the seating is at tables with chairs (tall in the bar and standard height for family dining) but there are booths along interior dividing pony walls that provide more intimate dining. A sailboat hangs from the high, open ceiling in the dining room and creates focal interest. In the bar, a drop ceiling brightens up the space and makes it feel a bit cozier. Bar lighting consists of halogen track lights, and attractive glass and metal pendant fixtures illuminate family dining above tables. The kitchen is somewhat open and displays a large stainless steel vent above the steaming boiler, which adds to the nautical nature of the atmosphere. Large screen TVs are situated above the bar for entertainment.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The jumbo lump crab cake on sesame slaw made with fresh ginger, cilantro, lime, mandarin tangerines, Napa cabbage, carrots, fried rice noodles and lemon aioli sounded like a tasty starter. Tuna combined with green apple, celery, toasted pecans, Tillamook cheddar on green olive bread completes Line & Lure’s version of a tuna melt. The hard-seared Columbia River king salmon with corn, edamame and summer squash succotash, celery germinate with parsley oil sounded delicious. The famous boil is available in lobster, crab, and shrimp and clam. A steak, chicken and a pork option is on the menu as well. Desserts include lemon souffle cake and salted butterscotch pudding. Brunch options include eggs Benedict, smoked salmon and asparagus quiche, candied pecan French toast, and fish and tots made with local beer-battered rockfish and sweet potato tots with house-made tartar sauce and malt vinegar aioli. A cheddar cheeseburger, chicken tenders with fries, bacon macaroni and cheese, steak skewers, and fish and chips are offered on the kids menu. Alcoholic beverages include cocktails, sparkling and regular wine, and draft, bottled and canned beer.

Other observations: I found the waitstaff friendly and attentive and happy to find out food details they did not readily know when asked. The atmosphere is very spacious and comfortable, and although it is a seafood restaurant, it does not have a strong seafood smell, nor did the items we ordered, which made the food experience enjoyable beyond the flavors. I will definitely return to Line & Lure for seafood before other Clark County options.

Cost: Brunch, lunch and dinner starters range from $7 to $36. Salads at brunch and lunch are $9 to $18. Brunch favorites cost $6 to $27. Sandwiches are $13 to $22. Desserts are $8. Lunch and dinner sandwiches are $14 to $22. Lunch entrees cost $14 to $28. Dinner fish and seafood dishes cost $16 to $28. Other protein dinner entrees are $26 to $31. The boil is available during brunch, lunch and dinner and costs $32 to $68. The late-night menu items range from $9 to $22.

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