News flash: Kale is still in. It’s still one of the nutritional highlights in my crisper drawer, and winter is its peak season, which means it’s most abundant, healthy and cheap right now.
Kale, part of the same family as broccoli, is loaded with vitamins (particularly A, C and K) as well as smaller quantities of protein, fiber and an impressive array of minerals. Plus, a cup of kale has under 35 calories, and a bunch of organic kale will set you back probably a little over a dollar right now. So, you’re going to need some updated kale recipes to get your through the winter.
The two varieties most available in the supermarkets are curly kale and the darker flat-leaved version that is called Tuscan, lacinato or dinosaur kale. Tuscan kale is thicker and heartier than the curly variety, so it holds up nicely in sautees. Both kale varieties are slightly bitter in flavor and do well to be “massaged” in acid, like lemon juice, which simultaneously tames the bitterness and gently breaks down the kale cells, making the leaf more tender in raw or lightly-cooked applications.
Today’s recipe is a saute starring Tuscan kale. I like to think of it as a warm salad with leaves made slightly more tender by a lemon juice massage and a quick saute. The main flavors are perfectly Mediterranean: anchovy paste and olives for saltiness (you can cut the quantities down if you are watching sodium), lemon zest for brightness, and garlic, which is a heart-healthy staple of the region.