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News / Life / Travel

Yosemite a wonder in the winter months

Activities abound but lack chaos of summer’s crowds

By DON BABWIN, Associated Press
Published: December 10, 2017, 6:00am
7 Photos
This undated image provided by Yosemite Hospitality shows a cross-country skier in Yosemite National Park in California in winter with the famous Half Dome formation in the background. The park offers solitude, scenery and activities like skiing and snowshoeing in the offseason when there are fewer crowds.
This undated image provided by Yosemite Hospitality shows a cross-country skier in Yosemite National Park in California in winter with the famous Half Dome formation in the background. The park offers solitude, scenery and activities like skiing and snowshoeing in the offseason when there are fewer crowds. (Yosemite Hospitality via AP) Photo Gallery

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, Calif. — Yosemite National Park might not seem like an ideal winter destination, particularly if you’re from a part of the country where you’d like to trade in road salt for rim salt on your margarita.

But Yosemite in winter is magical, as I discovered last year on a trip there with my family just after Christmas. There’s snowboarding and skiing, both downhill and cross-country, as well as sledding (pick up a plastic saucer at a sporting goods store on the way). You can also ice skate at a rink in the shadow of the famed granite formation known as Half Dome. Park rangers also lead snowshoe walks (free with $3 suggested donation).

Many of Yosemite Valley’s shops and restaurants remain open. And at the Majestic Hotel, one of the country’s most storied national park lodges, there are holiday decorations and a seven-course dinner with costumed performers called the Bracebridge Dinner. The wood-and-stone hotel, formerly known as the Ahwahnee, opened in 1927 and has hosted everyone from Presidents John F. Kennedy and Barack Obama to Queen Elizabeth and Walt Disney.

Naturalist John Muir once wrote that Yosemite was “full of God’s thoughts.”

Driving in, thick forests of snow-dusted pine and fir trees block your view at first of the park’s famous granite monoliths towering over Yosemite Valley. But there’s nothing like that first glimpse. El Capitan rises 3,600 feet from the valley floor, more than twice the height of the Empire State Building. On the other side of the valley is Half Dome, rising 4,700 feet off the valley floor.

In winter, the options for seeing these landmarks from anywhere other than the valley are limited, as some roads in the park are closed until the snow thaws. The cables that climbers use to ascend Half Dome are removed for the season.

But there are walking tours led by National Park Service rangers that explain how these huge chunks of granite came to be. They’re not just the result of erosion, but were also formed by melting glaciers and forces under the ground that over the millions of years pushed them higher and higher.

Visitors can also follow the footsteps of famed photographer Ansel Adams, who made his home here for a quarter century. You can even snap your own pictures from where Adams stood when he took some of his most iconic photographs. Classes cost about $100 but the Ansel Adams Gallery also offers free walks.

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