Why: If you have been missing waterfront dining since the Red Lion Hotel Vancouver at the Quay closed last October, there’s good news. The Red Lion restaurant space has been renovated as WareHouse ’23, a new restaurant, which opened over the summer. The menu is regionally inspired and consistently changing, and the bar is stocked with local beer, wine and cocktails with a creative flair. The restaurant’s owner, Mark Matthias, also owns the popular Beaches Restaurant and Bar where he has proved his recipe for success is all about adding value to Clark County’s dining scene.
What I tried: I had the knife & fork chowder and the quinoa kale salad. For dessert I settled on the vanilla bean panna cotta. The chowder consists of a bed of Yukon potatoes prepared scallop-style in a lobster cream sauce. Cured bacon is mixed in and deep sea clams are lightly breaded and fried before topping off the dish. Fresh parsley sprigs are used for garnish. I expected the dish to be very rich but I was pleasantly surprised that it was much more subtle than the ingredients suggested. It had a complex range of flavors: the cream which slightly hinted of lobster, the meaty goodness of the pork, and the delicious fried clams all played their part in making the dish enjoyable and appetizing. The dish demonstrated the wise use of fresh parsley as a garnish to be included and not pushed to the side. It was perfectly suited to accompany the other ingredients by both complimenting them and keeping them distinguishable from one another. I also found the different textures of the dish interesting and they added to the chowder’s appeal.
The salad paired well with the knife & fork chowder. Small kale leaves tossed in a mustard seed vinaigrette are topped with a touch of cranberries, apples, edamame, shallots and smoked hazelnuts. A portion of quinoa is placed atop and finished with dried pear slices. The result imparts a sense of seasonal Northwest goodness.
The dessert consisted of a portion of mixed berries and sweet glaze accompanied by a vanilla bean dusted ramekin of vanilla flavored panna cotta. The Italian-style, thickened sweet cream and berries were not overly sweet and completed the meal with fresh, simple pleasure.
Dining Out review: WareHouse ’23
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to midnight Monday through Saturday. Happy Hour is 3 to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close. Beginning Oct. 2, Sunday Brunch will be 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Where: 100 Columbia St., Vancouver.
Contact: 350-750-7256 or www.warehouse1923.com. WareHouse ’23 is also on Facebook for more information.
Health score: WareHouse ’23 received a Pre-Opening Inspection and is scheduled for a routine inspection in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
Atmosphere: The restaurant has been named for the year the waterfront warehouse was established. The former Red Lion feels a bit lifeless until you walk into the restaurant. Sturdy wood beams and tones of blue, brown and a splash of green set the foundation for a handsome, uncluttered, nautical theme. The big sail from the former restaurant has been utilized well to support the new look. Lantern-style pendant lights create a romantic glow throughout the space. Booth and table seating are available throughout and some of the booths are elevated. Large screen TVs are located in the bar. Two pianos are centrally located on the bar side. Of course, the view of the Columbia River and the Interstate 5 Bridge are still spectacularly on display through the windows that stretch along the south and the east of the warehouse.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The seared slab bacon with maple glaze and corn fritters sounded delicious, as did the Boursin-kale stuffed chicken with heirloom tomatoes, fingerlings, basil and lemon. Fresh caught fish is on the menu. Street tacos, hearth baked oysters, a house smoked brisket sandwich, a rough chopped chuck burger, and pizza with smoked andouille, pork belly, capicola ham, Gouda, and roasted chilies round out the menu with wide appeal.
Other observations: The evening of my visit was a full house with two pianists and a lively atmosphere. One of the most enjoyable things about my experience at the restaurant was the entertainment. The regular pianist, Mac Potts, is incredibly talented, as was the other pianist who joined him. Together, they managed to get full participation of diners for special requests and created a unified dining atmosphere which was truly memorable. The waitstaff was spot on, friendly and attentive. The food exceeded my expectations and I found the new decor attractive and well suited for the space. After 9 p.m. the restaurant is open to the 21 and over crowd. WareHouse ’23 has event space which may be reserved.
Cost: Small plates range from $3 to $12. Big plates are $11 to $28. Happy hour items generally range from $3.50 to $8 (minimum beverage $2 per person). Desserts are $5.50 to $8.
