Southwest Washington doesn’t boast Colorado’s aspen trees, Vermont’s sugar maples or even Eastern Washington’s western larch that overwhelm the eyes with color come fall time. Our evergreen trees are just that — always green, unchanging. Still, this area has its own kind of seasonal beauty if one only knows the right time and place to find it.
Brian Morris works at the state Department of Natural Resources in the Pacific Cascade region studying silviculture, or the growth of trees. Leaves on deciduous trees change color in autumn when temperatures drop and the amount of daylight decreases.
“When those two things start to happen, the trees can start to sense that,” Morris said.
Chlorophyll, the chemical that produces the green in leaves, breaks down to reveal carotenoids and anthocyanins. These produce the reds, oranges and yellows. When you see different colors in the leaves, you’re really seeing different compounds that are normally masked by chlorophyll.
“The process is genetically controlled. It is species specific as far as when they start to change,” Morris said. “Temperature is one of the main drivers.”
In general, higher elevations are going to show color first due to cooler temperatures. That means the view from the top of Silver Star Mountain is currently more colorful than from Cape Horn in the Columbia Gorge.
While there’s no hard-and-fast rule about when peak fall color will be, it’s generally best before November. Temperatures dropping below freezing, a strong wind or a downpour can speed up leaf drop.
“By November, things are going to be scarce,” Morris said.
So, go now and go often. If a storm’s a-comin’, go before that.
Nearby options for fall colors
Even if you don’t want to drive far, or don’t have a lot of time, you can see pockets of pretty fall colors in Clark County.
“At lower elevations you can get some color from big leaf maple and vine maple. But, the displays are much less dramatic,” said Ryan Ojerio, the regional manager of the Washington Trails Association.
The mature trees along Officers Row offer a colorful canopy for a walk from downtown Vancouver. Nearby Vancouver Lake Regional Park also has some big leaf maple trees, and there’s a trail connecting the park with Frenchman’s Bar.
Further north, the 300-acre Whipple Creek Park near the Clark County fairgrounds has 4.3 miles of trails to meander in search of color; you’ll see vine maple in the understory of fir canopies. Lewisville Regional Park, too, has miles of walking trails and some color at the water’s edge.
Cedar Creek Grist Mill in Woodland is a well-known, calendar-worthy spot for fall foliage and photography. On Saturday, Oct. 29, volunteers will be pressing 8,000 pounds of apples to make cider, a popular annual event.
Huckleberry along Harry’s Ridge
Got more time and energy? Ojerio recommends Harry’s Ridge, a trail in the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument that starts at the Johnston Ridge Observatory. Like many areas around Mount St. Helens, there are spots with little to no vegetation along this 8-mile trail that peaks at 4,400 feet. But, you’ll see colorful grasses, mountain ash, red huckleberry bushes and vine maple.
Ojerio says volunteers are building a bypass trail around the scary Devil’s Elbow cliff section — a narrow section of trail with rock on one side and a steep drop on the other side — that prevents some from doing this hike. Parking at the Johnson Ridge Observatory requires an $8 day-use fee unless you have an annual Interagency Pass.
Other trails depart from the observatory, including the paved, half-mile Eruption Trail. Coldwater Peak Trail, a 12-mile hike, is also known for its swatches of red huckleberry.
Ojerio urges hikers to wear bright colors in autumn, which is also hunting season.
Silver Star Mountain Ed’s Trail, Grouse Vista
Forest Road No. 4109 to Silver Star Mountain’s trailhead is rugged and rutted, requiring a high-clearance vehicle the last few miles, Ojerio said. It’s on the National Forest Service’s list of roads to receive maintenance work. To many, however, the dicey drive is worth the beautiful foliage you’ll find ascending Silver Star. Starting at the trailhead parking lot, take Ed’s Trail for a more scenic path to the top. Ed’s Trail is 5 miles round-trip.
Another option, for those with standard passenger vehicles needing an easier road to navigate, would be the Grouse Vista Trail that’s accessed via the L-1200 road. This lesser-known 6-mile trail also winds up Silver Star Mountain and offers similar scenery.
Columbia River Gorge panoramas
If you want a panoramic view of the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, Vista House in Corbett, Ore., is a good spot to see deciduous trees dotted among conifers. While nearby Latourell Falls is known for its chartreuse-colored moss, maple trees will provide some color should you want to continue driving east on the Historic Columbia River Highway and make a half-day trip out it.
Another spot for sweeping vistas of Washington and Oregon’s Gorge is the viewpoints along Cape Horn, which is just off state Highway 14 in Washougal. This summer, volunteers with Cape Horn Conservancy made improvements to the 7.7-mile trail that included a stone overlook and a bridge over a stream. The lower section of the trail is closed between Feb. 1 and July 15 for nesting peregrine falcons, so now is prime time to hike the whole trail.
For a closer-in view of the Gorge, kayak in the Camas Slough. The newly opened Washougal Waterfront Park at 56 S. First St. has a nonmotorized boat launch just east of the slough.
Take a long drive (or two)
Columbian outdoors reporter Al Thomas and Sue Ripp with the Forest Service recommend long drives in Skamania County’s Gifford Pinchot National Forest.
Lewis River Road No. 90 along Swift Reservoir has had enough logging along it in the past 20 years that there is a decent amount of deciduous trees in the old clearcut units, Thomas said.
To get to this road from Interstate 5, take the state Highway 503 exit toward Battle Ground.
Instead of following 503 south, continue east on Lewis River Road, which takes you along the north side of Swift Reservoir. If you would like a short detour from the drive, continue on Road No. 90 and then left on No. 9039 to Curly Creek Falls, where you can enjoy a short 0.4-mile hike. Otherwise turn onto Curly Creek Road No. 51 at the T-intersection.
This road will take you past McClellan Overlook offering views of Mount St. Helens. Follow that to Meadow Creek Road No. 30 heading south — it turns into Wind River Highway — and when you get to Carson, hop onto state Highway 14.
Maybe stop for a bite to eat in Stevenson on the way back from this 3 1/2 -hour drive.
Another Thomas-recommended drive in Gifford Pinchot is along Road No. 66 that follows the Big Lava Bed.
“The Big Lava Bed is about a 20,000-acre jumble of lava that came from a crater in the center of the lava beds. The lava bed is only lightly forested because trees don’t grow well in the poor soil. However, there is quite a bit of vine maple that persists along the edge of the Big Lava Bed and when the leaves turn it can be quite nice,” Thomas said.
To get to Road No. 66, follow state Highway 14 from Clark County east to the community of Cook and take Cook-Underwood Road north through the community of Mill A. Follow signs to the community of Willard and just past that, get onto Road No. 66. Stay on this road past a big meadow known as South Prairie until you get to Road No. 60. Here, you can detour by turning right to check out the nearby Guler Ice Caves. Otherwise, turn left onto Road No. 60, along which Goose Lake is located. Then, turn left onto Road No. 65 — stopping at Panther Creek Falls if desired — and follow it down to the Wind River Highway. This takes you south to Carson, where you can get back onto state Highway 14.
Again, you could get a bite to eat in Stevenson before or after the drive, which takes about four hours or so to complete.
