When planning for Thanksgiving, don’t forget the pecan pie

Leaves are changing, the weather is cooling, and the smell of fall lingers in the air. Pumpkins are appearing on doorsteps and families are beginning to plan their Thanksgiving menus. Pecan pie should always be on the list.

Pecan pie can be difficult to describe. It’s not a fruit pie or a cream pie, and it’s not a traditional custard. It falls into a loosely defined category most familiar to our Southern friends — the sugar pie. Sugar pies can be found in many styles and variations, but at its roots, a sugar pie is a single-crust pie with a baked filling of sugar, eggs and flavorings.

The sugar used can be granulated sugar, brown sugar, corn syrup, maple syrup, honey or molasses, depending on what you want your standout flavors to be. Pecan pies are commonly made with corn syrup, which lends a neutral flavor that helps the nuttiness of the pecans shine through, but substituting maple syrup can give richness and complexity without altering the texture.

Because the filling of sugar pies can be very soft, the pecans play an important textural role. These nuts can be added whole, chopped or a combination of both. They will soak up some of the filling, which will make them tender enough to cut with a fork, but with enough bite to contrast the soft, creamy filling. And what are rich pecans and a sweet filling without a flaky, buttery pie crust? Our all-butter crust is partially baked before filling, which helps keep it crisp despite the wet interior. Experiment with decorative borders and crimping to make your pie stand out on a crowded table.

Pecan pies are simple to prepare (easy as pie!), but it can be tough to determine when your pie is done. Sugar pie fillings won’t always look perfectly firm when they are still hot in the oven. You will notice that the edges of the filling, just along the crust, will be a little bit puffy — like a souffl? — even when the interior still appears slightly wet and jiggly. This is a good indicator that your pie is ready.

Pecan Pie

Makes one single-crusted 9-inch pie

Active time: 40 minutes. Inactive time: 1 1/2 hours to overnight.

1 recipe single-crust pie dough

1 1/2 cups toasted pecan halves

1/2 cup tightly packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3/4 cup light corn syrup

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

4 tablespoons (1?2 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Roll out the pie dough and use it to line a 9-inch pie. Partially blind bake the crust. Let cool to room temperature in the pan on a rack before filling. Keep the oven temperature at 400 F.

Spread the nuts in an even layer over the bottom of the partially baked pie shell. Stir the brown sugar and flour together in a mixing bowl until well blended. Add the corn syrup, eggs, butter, vanilla extract and salt and blend well. Pour the mixture over the nuts, disturbing the nuts as little as possible.

Place the pie on a baking sheet and bake until the center is softly set, 30-35 minutes. Let the pie rest for at least 20 minutes before slicing. Serve warm or at room temperature.

All Butter Pie Crust

An all-purpose buttery and flaky pie pastry made with all butter. The key to the flakiness is threefold — the size of the butter pieces; the proper mixing of the dough, which prevents the fat from completely blending into the flour; and keeping the butter cold throughout mixing. Makes two 11-inch rounds.

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

11 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

1/2 cup water, ice cold, more as needed

• To make by hand:

Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in a large bowl and scatter the butter pieces over the dry ingredients.

Using a pastry blender, or, rubbing the mixture between your fingers, work quickly to cut or rub the butter into the dry ingredients until it is in pieces the size of small hazelnuts.

Sprinkle half the ice-cold water over the butter mixture. Using your hands or a rubber spatula, lightly toss the dry mixture until the dough just begins to hold together. Continue to add water in small amounts until it becomes a rough but pliable dough. The dough should just hold together when pressed to the side of the bowl.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and divide into two portions. Shape the dough into 5- to 6-inch diameter flat, round disks and wrap them tightly in plastic wrap. Chill the dough in the refrigerator for at least 45 minutes to two hours or preferably overnight.

• To make using a food processor:

Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in the bowl of the food processor fitted with the steel cutting blade and process for a few seconds to combine.

Place the bowl in the freezer for 30 minutes, or until the ingredients and the bowl are well chilled. With the food processor off, add half of the cold butter and pulse 3-5 seconds, or until rough and pebbly. Add the remaining cold butter and pulse 4-5 seconds, or until the mixture appears rough, with irregular pieces of butter approximately the size of small walnuts.

Sprinkle approximately half of the ice-cold water over the dry mixture with the food processor off. Pulse the processor for 3-5 seconds, or until just combined. Check the dough by pressing it to the side of the bowl; if it does not hold together, add a small amount of the water and check again. When the mixture is pressed to the side of the bowl and it presses together and stays together, remove it from the bowl and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface.

Do not allow the mixture to form a ball or mass of dough in the bowl; if you allow this to occur, you have overmixed the dough and it will be tough.

Divide the dough into two portions and shape it into 5- to 6-inch diameter flat, round disks. Wrap the disks tightly in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least 45 minutes to two hours or preferably overnight, or until firm.

• To make using a stand mixer:

Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in the bowl of the mixer and place in the freezer for 30 minutes, or until the bowl and ingredients are well chilled. Remove the bowl from the freezer and place on the mixer. Using the paddle attachment, blend the dry ingredients on low speed for 15 seconds, or until combined. With the mixer off, add the butter pieces to the mixing bowl and then combine on medium speed for 1-2 minutes, or until the butter is in pieces no larger than small walnuts, but no smaller than peas.

Sprinkle approximately half of the ice-cold water over the dry mixture and blend on low speed for 30-60 seconds, or until just combined. Continue to add the liquid in small amounts until the mixture transitions from a slightly powdery appearance with chunks of butter, to a gravelly rough dough. When the dough just holds together when pressed to the side of the bowl, remove from the bowl and turn out onto a lightly floured work surface. At this stage, do not add too much liquid or overwork the dough, as it will cause your crust to become tough.

Divide the dough into two portions and shape it into 5- to 6-inch diameter flat, round disks. Wrap the disks tightly in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least 45 minutes to two hours or preferably overnight, or until firm.

Per serving: 703 calories; 353 calories from fat; 40 g fat (6 g saturated; 1 g trans fats); 138 mg cholesterol; 416 mg sodium; 80 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 40 g sugar; 10 g protein.