Why: Fargher Lakehouse opened in January. On state Highway 503 in Yacolt, the brand-new building and property developments are a welcome sight just down the street from an abandoned, dilapidated building. The restaurant offers a seasonal menu of items that are all made in-house with the best of care for the whole family. It also employs a full staff to ensure each table is well tended to.
What I tried: I settled on the buttermilk-fried chicken, which has a jalape?o-honey sauce on it and was accompanied by a loaded baked potato and grilled pineapple coleslaw. For dessert, I had the Neapolitan, a layered wonder of fresh strawberries, whipped cream and puff pastry.
I knew I was in for a treat when my entree arrived. The food was beautifully plated. The chicken was a portion of breast covered in a thick, crispy and wonderfully seasoned coating that was golden brown and drizzled with a sweet sauce. I did not detect any presence of jalape?o, as noted on the menu, but it was so good I did not mind. The chicken was tender without any trace of greasiness that usually accompanies fried chicken.
The loaded baked potato was actually two (almost) medium potatoes placed upright and topped with the perfect amount of sour cream, chives and crispy bacon.
Dining Out: Fargher Lakehouse
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday.
Where: 15519 N.E. Fargher Lake Road, Yacolt.
More information: 360-263-1200. Fargher Lakehouse’s Facebook page often includes information about daily specials.
Health score: Fargher Lakehouse has received a pre-opening inspection, for which a score is not available, and is scheduled for a routine inspection in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
Alongside the chicken and potatoes was a bowl of the grilled pineapple coleslaw, which had a most unique and appetizing flavor. Amid the slaw’s chopped, green leaves were julienned root vegetables and grilled pineapple squares. The mix was doused in a light, watery dressing. This coleslaw is a must-try side dish if your entree does not come with it.
I was impressed with the extra care with which the dessert was made. Instead of sloppily cut strawberries, the berries were uniformity chopped and lightly pressed into a round base layer for the layers of cream and pastry on top. Fresh strawberry syrup surrounded the base of the Neapolitan. The dessert was topped with one final dollop of cream and a whole strawberry.
Atmosphere: Wood siding and large planter boxes full of thriving foliage give the restaurant’s exterior street-side appeal. The dining room has raised booths along the perimeter, each with its own window, dressed with a vase and fresh flower on the sill. Tables with chairs fill in the rest of the dining space. The bar is adjacent to the dining room and displays a fully stocked back bar, and large, metalwork salmon made by a local artist are positioned above the bar. Red and black brick, as well as blond and red wood, are used on the walls and floor of the dining room to create a handsome look. Italian glass pendant lights provide a warm glow above booths, and oversized sconces along one wall add a dramatic element to the decor.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The bacon-wrapped meatloaf is another popular choice. It is made with a blend of ground tenderloin and chorizo wrapped with bacon and finished with a tomato sauce. It is accompanied by loaded baked potatoes and seasonal vegetables. The blackened salmon bowl, which combines pinto beans, red quinoa, avocado, roasted corn, kale and the salmon, sounds appetizing. There is a grilled 14-ounce rib-eye on the menu as well. Among the sides is a German potato salad. Daily specials are available, and the desserts vary.
Other observations: The waitstaff is among the best in Clark County with a genuinely happy and courteous attitude. The food and dining atmosphere is well worth the drive to Yacolt. Parking is adequate for the size of the restaurant.
Every element of my dining experience was spot on. I found myself somewhat envious of the local residents who can conveniently pop over to the restaurant for a deliciously crafted meal.
Cost: Starters cost $6 to $8. Salads are $5 to $9, and you may add your choice of protein (blackened salmon, grilled chicken or saut?ed shrimp) for $4 to $6. Pasta dishes range from $11 to $18. Sandwiches are $8 to $13. Entrees start at $14 and top out at $28. Sides cost $4 and $5. Wine is available by the glass for $5.50 to $12 or by the bottle for $22 to $40. Cocktails are $7 to $8.50. Bottled and draft beers cost $3.50 to $7.50.
