Why: The Pioneer Street Cafe in Ridgefield reopened in December with new owners and a new staff. Owners Jason and Holly Shipman want to re-establish the cafe as one of the finer places to dine in Ridgefield. The cafe is open for lunch and dinner, and breakfast is available on the weekends. The menu, though not extensive, offers made-from-scratch dishes.
What I tried: On my dinner visit, I settled on the meatloaf, which is a popular item, and the spring mix salad. My dining companion had the roasted herb chicken and the wedge salad.
Both of our salads were impressive. The spring mix consists of mixed greens, shaved leeks, Gorgonzola cheese, spiced candied pecans and apples, tossed in a sherry vinaigrette. Presentation was artful, and the thick, sweet coating on the pecans was not too hard. All the greens were fresh, and the apple was cut into small sticks and piled atop the salad. Just the right amount of vinaigrette was present to complement the salad without drowning it, as is too often the case with salads that are tossed in dressing.
The wedge salad combined two big slabs of iceberg lettuce with traditional toppings instead of a single wedge from the head. There was a generous amount of meaty bacon pieces on top, which almost qualified it as a meal in itself.
Dining Out: Pioneer Street Cafe
Hours:11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; 5 to 9 p.m. on Saturday.
Telephone:360-887-8002.
Where:207 Pioneer St., Ridgefield.
Health score: Pioneer Street Cafe received a score of 10 on March 22. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
The pork-beef blend meatloaf was served with chunky mashed potatoes and dark-brown mushroom gravy, with grilled bell pepper and zucchini. The small portion of caramelized onion that accompanied the meatloaf was a delicious addition to each bite. I found the meatloaf to have a classic texture, rather than being crumbly, and each bite was punctuated by rosemary.
Several tender chicken pieces were served atop mashed potatoes and doused in a lemon-herb sauce, which further imparts an herbiness to the dish. The chicken also was topped with a helping of fresh greens. Alongside were expertly prepared candied carrots, a nice pairing with the chicken.
Atmosphere: Gray and red walls give the petite restaurant an updated look, along with a dark wood wall that serves as a back bar and server station. There are two large bakery cases: one for baked items, and the other awkwardly stores table linens and tableware. Seating consists of a few booths and tables, and chairs fill in the rest of the area. Overall, the cafe feels as though it is awaiting some finishing touches.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The cioppino is popular among diners. This dish is made with black cod, mussels, clams and shrimp in a tomato sauce. The macaroni and cheese, which combines chicken, mushrooms, caramelized onions, cream and a cheese blend, sounded rich and delicious. Veggie fries are made with zucchini, portobello mushrooms and fennel tempura, and served with a truffle aioli. The crab cake appetizer also sounded yummy. Breakfasts are American-style with a twist, and sandwiches make up the bulk of the lunch menu.
Other observations: The food was very good and was served at a nice pace. The waitress lacked polish and was in need of more training. I found the atmosphere pleasant, but there was an unsightly, open trash can in need of being emptied at the end of the counter that, at the time of my visit, was in plain sight adjacent to the booth in which I sat.
Cost: Dinner selections range from $8 to $28. Breakfast and lunch options are $8 to $13. Beer is $2.50 to $6. Wine is $6 to $11 by the glass and $22 to $42 by the bottle.
