Why: Compass Coffee Roasting in Vancouver recently closed its small satellite coffee shop on Main Street and opened a new coffeehouse on Washington Street. Compass Coffee avoids corporate imitation by reflecting its Pacific Northwest roots, all the while providing more space and a modern coffeehouse experience.
The coffee shop’s roasting is done in small batches of 6 pounds or less five days a week to ensure quality and freshness. The focus at Compass is not on price but the quality that goes into each cup.
What I tried: I had a regular cup of coffee, and my dining companion opted for an Americano.
I tried the Lumberjack breakfast sandwich, made on a multigrain English muffin stacked with a cage-free egg, honey ham and aged white cheddar. My dining companion had the Treehugger breakfast sandwich, made on a ciabatta roll with a cage-free egg, caramelized onion, arugula and aged white cheddar. We also had a few pastries, which, sourced from the Bleu Door Bakery, were nothing short of divine.
Dining Out Review: Compass Coffee
Hours:5 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Information: 360-949-2643 or www.compasscoffeeroasting.com
Where: 817 Washington St., Vancouver.
Health score: Compass Coffee received a score of zero on Feb. 5. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
I found the coffee rich with flavor while avoiding the strong or burned character often associated with commercial, high-volume coffeehouses. It was one of the best cups of coffee I’ve had in recent memory, which will prompt a return visit in the near future.
Both of the breakfast sandwiches were substantial. The only downside was the heating method: a microwave at the help-yourself condiment and utensil station for customers to heat the food themselves. The result is typical of a microwave-heated item — rubbery and too hot, or not quite hot enough — unless you’re skilled or lucky enough to perfectly set the heat time. It would be beneficial for Compass, even though its focus is on the coffee, to use a convection microwave oven for this. This would provide a heated product that could be enjoyed at its fullest potential.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The espresso beverage selection includes all of the designer drinks one expects to find. Compass has one of the largest selections of loose-leaf tea in Vancouver. Juice and milk are available, as well. There is a good variety of pastries provided by Bleu Door Bakery, in addition to sandwiches and wraps by Molly’s Grown to Eat.
Atmosphere: The decor incorporates Old World and Victorian style with Pacific Northwest charm to create a comfortable and inviting space that is a refreshing departure from trendy. White, dark powder blue and gray tones are accented with black and handsome wood. Sections of brick on the walls add further interest with texture.
Seating consists of tables and chairs and tall stools at a counter along the street-side window. A lot of natural light enters through the many windows, and there is a collection of attractive and unique light fixtures above.
Other observations: The service was friendly. The coffee was excellent, a testament to expertly roasted beans. Free Wi-Fi is available. I don’t normally mention restrooms, but the restroom at Compass is one of the coolest. The walls are painted with chalkboard paint, and chalk is provided for graffiti purposes.
Cost: Eight-ounce, 12-ounce and 16-ounce sizes are available and range from $2 to $7. The price goes up depending on drink modifications and add-ins. Pastries and sandwiches cost $1.75 to $7.95. Bagged coffee beans typically range from $5.25 to $18.95.
