European authenticity awaits at La Bottega

Why: La Bottega cafe, deli & wine shop in downtown Vancouver provides a bit of European presence for diners and wine aficionados. Quality ingredients are used to craft exclusive menu items that combine distinct flavors ideal for enjoying with wine. The deli and retail products layer the experience with European authenticity.

What I tried: I settled on the capicola-style seared pork, made with Carlton Farms pork leg with a red chili rub. The pork was paired with grilled polenta, roasted red pepper, grilled zucchini and eggplant topped with Parmesan cheese. My dining companions tried the smoked mushroom ravioli, which combines mushrooms, leeks and rosemary in a balsamic cream sauce, and the chicken saltimbocca, made with Petaluma chicken prepared with prosciutto, sage, fontina cheese and pan jus. The chicken was paired with sugar snap peas and mashed potatoes. For dessert, we sampled the house-made vanilla gelato, which reminded us of homemade ice cream that has a refreshing, icy character.

I enjoyed the flavor of the pork, made slightly spicy by the chili rub. It was juicy as well, but it was a little tough to chew. The vegetables were nicely grilled, and the Parmesan melted on top of them added a touch more character to the dish.

Both of my dining companions were impressed with their entrees and noted that the use of herbs was not overdone. The mushroom ravioli and sauce had a deep, earthy color and a smoky, rich flavor. The chicken saltimbocca was tender and juicy, and the mashed potatoes were soft and creamy with excess pan jus around the edges, allowing a hint of gravy flavor to mingle with them.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The stuffed rainbow trout — with Dungeness crab, prawns, lemon tarragon butter, escarole and garbanzo-pork belly hash — sounded interesting. The wagyu beef coulotte with port demi-glace, roasted butternut squash, leeks, grilled asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes is sure to please, and the gnocchi e buffalo, which consists of cocoa-seared bison and house-made gnocchi, cherry jus, butternut squash and black kale, sounded delicious. Among the desserts are a pistachio olive oil cake, tiramisu and handmade truffles.

Atmosphere: The space has a somewhat cozy, crowded feel with tables and chairs set on the open floor flanked by a selection of food and wine products that generously fill display shelves. Deli cases are topped with various items below a rack where dried meats, baskets and pans hang. Cold cases are filled with house-made soups, sauces, pastas and entrees to take home. Track and pendant lighting provide just the right balance of light for the space, and a roll-up door on the street side of the establishment allows for sidewalk dining during warmer weather.

Other observations: The waitstaff was knowledgeable about menu items and very attentive. La Bottega hosts special events throughout the year, such as their wine dinner. Wines of a select region or wine maker are paired with a four to five course custom dinner, with reservations required. Wine tasting and antipasti is every Wednesday. The cost is $10 to $12 per person, which includes four wines and complimentary antipasto.

Cost: Lunch antipasti cost $4 to $12. Salads are $7 to $15. Pasta dishes range from $7 to $17, and sandwiches are $4.50 to $10. Dinner salads are $7 and $8. Pasta starts at $7 and tops out at $24. Entrees are $22 to $26. Desserts are $2 to $8. Red wines are available for $18 to $320, and whites are $8 to $388. Items and prices are subject to change, but are kept updated on the restaurant’s website.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Wine tasting is 5 to 8 p.m. every Wednesday.

Where: 1905 Main St., Vancouver.

More information: 360-571-5010 or www.labottegafoods.com

Health score: La Bottega received a score of 10 on Feb. 25. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.