Why: Top Shelf Cocktail & Martini Bar in downtown Vancouver was established in 2005 in a building constructed in 1896. This weekend, the business is rolling out a new menu to expand food offerings and adding to its martini options. It is a place that really comes to life after midnight but is just as welcoming to the earlier crowd.
What I tried: I tried several items, including the meatballs, which were made with beef and pork sausage, baked in marinara sauce, topped with Parmesan cheese and served with toasted garlic bread; handcrafted cheese fondue served with fresh, sweet bread and sausage (it costs $2.50 more for the sausage); the quesadilla made with a spinach tortilla, cheese, onion, tomato and chicken (it costs $2.50 more for chicken); pulled pork sliders on a thick grilled bread and served with kettle chips; potato wedges topped with bacon, cheese, onion, tomato and sour cream; and the house salad made with romaine lettuce, tomato, onion, cucumber and croutons.
All of the items were delicious. The hot ones were piping hot from the oven, the grilled ones were fresh off the grill, and the salad was crisp and cold. The fondue remained of dipping consistency even as it cooled.
I usually do not prefer onions on salad, but the salad at Top Shelf has a small amount of onions, and they are chopped very small. They were white, mild onions, which added a touch of complementary flavor without overwhelming.
Dining Out Review: Top Shelf Cocktail & Martini Bar
Hours: 2 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday; 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 8 p.m. Sunday.
Where: 600 Main St., Vancouver.
Contact: 360-699-7106 or www.topshelfgrill.com. Top Shelf is also on Facebook.
Health score: Top Shelf received a score of 33 on June 26. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
The fondue tasted similar to white cheddar cheese. The sweet bread, cut into bite-sized chunks, reminded me of challah bread, and the sausage was similar to a smoked kielbasa variety — both were extra tasty after coating them in the smooth cheese fondue.
The bread used for the sliders and the garlic bread accompanying the meatballs, although different than what is usually used for sliders and garlic bread, was an appetizing departure. The bread also held together well for the sliders.
The meat on the sliders was tender, void of fatty pieces and had a sweet barbecue flavor.
The meatballs at Top Shelf might just be my new favorite. The combination of meats and seasonings (Cajun mix, cayenne pepper and chili) create a spicy-hot, powerful flavor, and the tomato-y and robust marinara sauce that they are baked and served in is the perfect pairing. In my opinion, they would make a superior meatball sandwich.
I found the quesadilla pretty basic, but the spinach tortilla bumped it up a notch. A fair amount of black pepper is added to the potato wedges, which brings out the best in this otherwise common combination.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The new menu will include glazed meatballs, served with the diner’s choice of sweet and sour sauce or teriyaki sauce and rice; the sausage potatoes O’Brien; and a Top Shelf wrap, made with romaine lettuce, onions, cheese, tomatoes and the diner’s choice of meat or only vegetables in a grilled spinach wrap. Chicken wings, nachos and a hummus plate are also on the menu.
Atmosphere: Situated on the northwest corner of Main and West Sixth streets, the mostly glass entryway invites patrons into a sophisticated and open space. Strategically placed spotlights bathe the brick walls and dark-green ceiling in just the right amount of light. A handsome copper-topped bar offers plenty of seating, and there are a few tables (mostly tall) at the edges of the space. A leather sofa provides a soft place to sit and enjoy a drink, but there is not a table paired with it. A few TVs provide entertainment. During my 6:30 p.m. visit, music filled the background without making it difficult to hear conversation.
Other observations: I visited Top Shelf in spite of its most recent health score after hearing favorable comments from several people. Based on my experience, I will not be surprised if the restaurant’s next inspection score is much improved.
I found the waitstaff friendly and knowledgable about the items they serve.
Top Shelf also has local beer and wine, and it has a DJ during later evening hours.
If quiet and relaxed is what you’re looking for, an early visit is prudent.
Cost: Food items range from approximately $5 to $10. Cocktails are about $7 to $9.
