Why: Two months ago Rose’s Restaurant, Bakery and Bar in Vancouver reopened at a new address just a few blocks north of its former digs. Owners Mila and Mike Huddleston, a mother-and-son team, have given the restaurant a fresh new look — transforming it from old-style deli to modern bistro. Home recipes are all made from scratch, and the restaurant provides complete table service for family dining and a full bar. All of that, and a fresh assortment of expertly-crafted sweet bakery items, aim to provide a top-notch experience that diners will want to return for.
What I tried: My dining companion and I started our meal with the pastrami fries. I settled on the stuffed cabbage rolls, and my dining companion had the bacon-wrapped pork tenderloins. We both chose vegetables and cheddar mashed potatoes to accompany our entrees. For dessert, we tried the French silk cake.
The pastrami fries are a popular item at Roes’s. They are made with large, wedge style, hand-cut fries, which soak overnight to optimally ready them for frying. Once fried and seasoned, they are topped with meaty bits of pastrami, sweet and tangy sauerkraut, and just the right amount of thousand island dressing. The result is a tasty appetizer that easily could be paired with a salad for a meal.
My dining companion thoroughly enjoyed the pork tenderloins, which were each wrapped in a slice of juicy bacon. He noted that they were perfectly cooked, remaining moist and tender.
Dining Out review: Rose’s Restaurant, Bakery and Bar
Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday. 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday. 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. Happy Hour is 3 to 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. to close Monday through Saturday and all day Sunday.
Where: 2115 S.E. 192nd Ave., Vancouver.
More information: 360-891-4865. Rose’s is also on Facebook.
Health score: Rose’s has received a pre-opening inspection at its new location, for which a score was not available, and is scheduled for a routine inspection in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
Stuffed cabbage rolls do not frequently occur on the menus of restaurants — and that is the main reason I ordered them. I was not disappointed. Two rolls, each about the size of a russet potato, consisted of ground beef and rice deliciously seasoned with fresh spices and wrapped within tender, cooked cabbage leaves. The rolls are simmered in the house red sauce, which also tops each roll with a robust, tomatoey goodness that’s not soon forgotten.
Both the pork and cabbage rolls sat atop a reasonable portion of rich and smooth cheddar mashed potatoes and were accompanied by cooked zucchini and carrots, which were garden fresh, diagonally cut, and had a slight snap to each bite. The vegetables had not been smothered in butter, oil or seasoning, which I appreciated.
The French silk cake, with its flawless construction and fudge-like mouse character, was a luxurious ending to our delightful meal at Rose’s.
Atmosphere: The end space of the strip mall that Roes’s occupies has a single-door entry that opens to a hallway flanked by a spotless bakery case full of enticing items. The dining floor is separated from the bar by a pony wall. Multi-toned wood surfaces, gray and red are the foundation to a simple and sophisticated decor that is uncluttered and spacious. Next to the main dining floor, a windowed cathedral style wall provides ample natural light for the space, and a view of mature evergreens outside. Televisions provide visual entertainment without a disruptive volume. Seating consists of tables and chairs and tall chairs at the bar.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Rose’s Famous Reuben weighs in at nearly one pound and comes in three versions: pastrami, corned beef, or both plus oven-roasted turkey. The Chicken Victoria, made with saut?ed spinach and mushrooms, sounded delicious, as did the salmon platter, served with a lemon caper sauce. Chicken cordon bleu and homemade meatloaf are on the menu as well.
Other observations: The atmosphere is inviting and comfortable, the waitstaff is polished and attentive, and I found the food quality among the best. My experience at Rose’s will most certainly bring me back again.
Cost: Starters cost $6.99 to $8.99. Soup is $5.99 for a cup and $6.99 or $7.99 for a bowl. Salads cost $10.99 and $11.99, but the Caesar with blackened salmon is $12.99. Sandwiches range from $10.99 to $14.99 and are served with a choice of fries, potato salad or coleslaw (substitutions of garlic fries, sweet potato fries or a garden salad are an additional $1.99). Soup or salad and half-sandwich combos are $9.99. Burgers are $9.99 to $11.99. Pasta dishes are $12.99 and $13.99. Signature entrees start at $12.99 and top out at $17.99. Dessert prices are based on selection. Happy Hour menu items are $2 to $6. Cocktails are $6 to $9. Most wines by the glass are $7.50. Beer by the pint is $4 and $6, and bottled is $4.
