Nowadays, the star of the town is the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, which is celebrating its 80th anniversary by staging 11 plays on three stages for nine months. But old-timers are quick to point out that the rambunctious spirit of the railroad’s golden age has not yet vanished. Indeed, there’s one feisty ghost, in particular, who is said to roam the halls of the historic Peerless on 4th, a stylish 1894 hotel that seduces its guests with the romance of the past, from clawfoot tubs to hand-painted, trompe l’oeil murals and stained-glass lamps.
The Victorian ambiance is only heightened by the hotel’s supernatural guest, a genteel lady named Amelia with red hair piled high atop her head. To be clear, I never caught a glimpse of Amelia (thank goodness!), but the lights in my swanky suite flickered on and off every once in a while, so I suspect she may have been paying me a visit. There was also one goose-bump-filled evening when I returned to the hotel in the wee hours, having walked back from the theater through an eerie pea-soup fog, visions of the Dickensian romp “Fingersmith” still dancing in my head. As I passed through the empty hotel lobby, I thought I heard the unmistakable creak of the antique hobby horse bouncing all by itself. No power on Earth could have compelled me to turn back and check.
My idea of making a connection to the past has a whole lot more charm in the bright light of day. If you have a hankering for history, there’s no better place to stay in Ashland than the historic Railroad District. It’s only six blocks away from the crowds of Main Street, but it feels a universe away. Here, locals lounge over ridiculously good java and chocolate croissants from Noble Coffeehouse, while they listen to street musicians, or stroll through one of a half-dozen art galleries in the area. Yoga studios, holistic wellness centers and the Ashland Co-op offer a window into the pleasures of the mellow, ecofriendly Ashland lifestyle. It’s a little like Berkeley, only without the crime, traffic and stratospheric price tags.
Just across the street from the Peerless, you’ll find Revive, a picturesque shop that specializes in revamped antique furniture, housed in the town’s old firehouse. It’s a place where you can be fashionable as well as green, which is the sweet spot in Ashland. For the record, this is also a terrific town for thrifting. Vintage addicts can rummage through designer castoffs at Deja Vu, just up the road. (Since there is no sales tax in Oregon, it’s almost like everything is on sale.)