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News / Life / Dining Out

’50s fare fine at Stardust Diner

Classic prefab restaurant has wide variety of good food

The Columbian
Published: June 26, 2015, 12:00am
5 Photos
The interior of the Stardust Diner in Vancouver is shown June 17.
The interior of the Stardust Diner in Vancouver is shown June 17. Photo Gallery

Why: Although diners became a part of the American landscape more than 100 years ago, just a few styles have endured the test of time. Stardust Diner, which represents the 1950s, is a family-friendly blast from this age when rock ‘n’ roll was birthed and the Space Age arrived. The authentic prefabricated restaurant and its contents provide a one-of-its-kind experience in Clark County. The menu offers classic diner options for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week and it is one of the few places where breakfast is served all day.

What I tried: I had the Special Country Breakfast, which consists of two eggs, bacon or sausage (I chose bacon), and two biscuits topped with homemade gravy. I also had the fresh-squeezed orange juice.

Although they offer regular orange juice, I was glad I requested the fresh-squeezed. It was sweet and refreshing.

I opted for scrambled eggs and was pleased to find them well-scrambled and thoroughly cooked. They tasted as though they were prepared in a fresh pan, void of unpleasant residue, which I appreciated. Stardust’s smoked applewood bacon was exceptionally prepared. It was meaty, slightly (not overly) chewy, had a slight crisp on the edges and a sweet, smoky flavor. The biscuits were very soft and moist, and they were topped with an ample amount of delicious sausage gravy, which was seasoned with sage. The sausage bits in the gravy were gristle-free and created a pleasant texture.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Breakfast options include a 12-ounce giant chicken fried steak and eggs served with potatoes and toast or a biscuit. For meat lovers, there is a hobo skillet which includes bacon, ham and sausage mixed with green onion, country potatoes and topped with cheddar and jack cheeses. Omelettes are made with three eggs. Among the salad choices is a chicken Cobb salad. Beef liver and grilled onions are served with brown gravy and a baked potato, veggies and cornbread for a hearty combination. Sandwiches include a French dip, a halibut and a tuna melt. The Blue Moon Burger is made with 10 ounces of ground chuck, American cheese, and two strips of that delicious applewood bacon on a toasted sesame-seed bun. Of course, there are milkshakes, malts, sundaes and banana splits for dessert.

Atmosphere: Upon first glance, Stardust Diner looks like a pimped-out Airstream trailer. The shiny chrome structure trimmed in royal blue stands out on the landscape with its tidy green lawn and tall neon sign. The inside also is impressively designed, with a blue-and-white tiled floor below an embossed tin ceiling; comfortable padded booths, chairs and bar stools; aluminum-trimmed Formica tabletops; and numerous framed newspaper stories, magazine covers, signs and advertising from the 1950s on the walls. Each window booth has its own mini coin-operated jukebox.

Other observations: The waitstaff was super attentive, in fact, among the most attentive and polite that I have encountered as of late. I liked the nostalgic, relaxing atmosphere and found myself hoping there will always be a circa-1950s diner to enjoy.

Cost: Breakfast specialties are $7.29 to $9.99 — not to be confused with breakfast specials for $5.99, which are served 7 to 10 a.m. Monday through Friday. Skillets, omelettes, and meat-and-egg combos range from $6.99 to $11.99. Pancake and waffle breakfasts cost $4.99 to $7.99. Senior breakfast specials are $5.99.

For lunch and dinner, appetizers are $2.99 to $5.99. Salads cost $2.59 to $7.99. Soup is $2.29 for a cup, $3.29 for a bowl. Dinner beef and pork selections are $8.99 to $14.99. Chicken and seafood selections are $9.29 to $10.49. Burgers range from $6.99 to $9.49. Sandwiches cost $6.99 to $8.99. Senior specials are $5.99 for lunch and $6.99 to $7.99 for dinner.

Desserts are $2.39 to $4.79. Kids (12 and under) menu items are all less than $4.60.

Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Where: 1110 S.E. 164th Ave., Vancouver.

Telephone: 360-828-1648 or www.stardustvancouver.com

Health score: Stardust Diner received a score of 5 on Jan. 20. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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