Why: Khun Jo’s Thai Chicken House is the newest of three Thai restaurants owned and operated by the Varagoon family in Vancouver. The other two are Arawan Thai Cuisine and Ginger Pop.
Khun Jo’s opened Dec. 9 in the strip mall space that formerly housed Strada’s Vancouver location. The restaurant serves traditional Thai breakfast, lunch and early dinner, along with a variety of homemade hot and iced Thai teas and coffee.
What I tried: Since we have an abundance of Thai options in Vancouver, but few that offer breakfast, I decided to visit for breakfast. I had the Khao Tom, which is rice soup with a poached egg and a choice of pork or chicken. I chose pork with mine. I also had Kanom Bang Ping, which is milk toast made with butter and sweetened condensed milk. Other toast options include butter and sugar, Nutella chocolate spread, and butter and jam (pineapple, orange-ginger or seasonal).
My dining companion tried the pineapple jam on his toast. I also brought home a fresh-baked pineapple roll, a taro roll and a couple of loose leaf teas, which are sold in approximately 3-ounce bags. From the nine different tea flavors, I settled on the Cha Chocolat (cocoa nibs and vanilla) and the Cha Hohm Mali (jasmine pearl). I tried the Cha King tea (a ginger variety) to drink with my breakfast, and my dining companion had the Kah-Feh Bolan (old-fashioned Thai coffee).
I have tried Thai breakfast cuisine on one other occasion and did not find it to my liking. It did not have a fresh, breakfast quality and left me pining for good-old American standards. My breakfast experience at Khun Jo’s was different and left me with the impression that Thai breakfast cuisine can be a wholesome, flavorful and enjoyable start to the day.
The rice soup contained white rice, a small but adequate portion of deliciously savory pork bites, a poached egg, green onion, cilantro and fresh-grated ginger in a tasty broth, which hinted of garlic and a touch of salt. The result was a very satisfying and harmonious blending of flavors that I found to be a pleasant departure from American breakfast cuisine, which is often heavy on sugar, fat and salt. Mixing the yolk of the poached egg into the soup mellowed its flavors and added richness.
Both my dining companion and I liked the milk toast, which is prepared on a hot grill and folded in half after the topping is applied. Each piece is individually wrapped in paper. I thought it made a good side to the soup and found that it had similar qualities to French toast in texture and sweetness.
I was not particularly fond of the Cha King tea, though my dining companion was pleased with the Kah-Feh Bolan, which is made by using a French press and served in a paper cup.
The pineapple roll and the taro roll were excellent. Both were fresh, with just enough filling for flavor, but not so much that it intruded on the fluffiness of the bread.
The loose-leaf teas for purchase are produced by the Jasmine Pearl Tea Company of Portland. I am delighted with the two that I brought home. The jasmine pearl is aromatic and floral-tasting, and the cocoa nibs and vanilla has a deep and malty essence.
Atmosphere: Dark wood tones and a stained concrete floor accented with black and steel create a handsome dining room. The order and pick-up counter is backed in glossy white tiles, which provide a pleasant contrast next to the dining area.
Booths, a bar-height counter, benches and chairs provide a variety of seating options.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Lunch and dinner selections include Peek Gai Tod Nahm Pla (fried chicken wings marinated in fish sauce), Khao Kamoo (stewed pork leg, egg and rice) and Khao Gai Todd (fried chicken and rice).
Other observations: Service was friendly and professional.
Prices may be considered a bit inflated if considering only the ingredients — though I think it’s worth the cost considering the dining experience as a whole.
Cost: Main dishes range from $1.50 to $9, and additional add-ins cost $1 to $4.50. Breakfast items are $1.50 to $5.50. Beverages start at $1.75 and top out at $4.50.
Hours: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Where: 2100 S.E. 164th Ave., Suite A-109, Vancouver.
Contact: 360-718-7218 or www.khunjos.com
Health score: Khun Jo’s Thai Chicken House is scheduled to receive a routine inspection in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
