Why: Eastland Sushi & Asian Cuisine offers an array of experiences under one roof. There is a full liquor bar, a sushi bar and several dining rooms — each catering to a specific area of interest. The menu presents a large selection of Asian cuisine for the whole family.
What I tried: My dining companion and I settled on Sizzling Rice Soup, egg flower soup and chicken lettuce wraps, and we also tried the combination dinner box with cashew chicken and twice-cooked pork for our two selections. We had hot green tea to drink.
The Sizzling Rice Soup contains chicken, shrimp, pork, and a few vegetables, including baby corn and fresh mushrooms. Hot, sizzling rice is added at the table just before serving. The soup has a clear broth that is not salty, which gives the flavors in the soup an unenhanced quality.
The broth of the egg flower soup was a bit thicker than usual, but the flavor was comparable to others that I have tried.
An artful presentation of the lettuce wraps set high hopes for the dish. Four uniformly sized iceberg lettuce leaves, each containing a mixture of bits of white chicken and vegetables, surrounded a dish of peanut sauce for dipping. The leaves held together quite well when rolled up for eating. The peanut sauce had a deep, rich flavor that reminded me of Teriyaki sauce with a hint of peanut. I found the wraps satisfying, but the vegetables were small cubed carrots and green peas — a dead ringer for the frozen variety that lend a dominating flavor to whatever recipe they find their way into. I would omit these and put in fresh cut vegetables that complement the meat.
The spring roll and crab puff in the dinner box were similar to others that I have tried. The dessert looked just like one of the round brownie bites that may be purchased at Fred Meyer, though it was much gooier and not as chocolaty.
I was not impressed with the cashew chicken or the twice-cooked pork. Though the flavor of the cashew chicken was spot on, the chicken pieces were very small in size and overly tenderized, which gave them a texture that was too soft. The pork was combined with green peppers, cabbage and carrots in a spicy chili plum sauce. Most of the thinly sliced pieces of pork were extremely chewy, and their flavor varied from tasting wholly like the sauce to tasting past the shelf date.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The baked butterfly shrimp stuffed with crab and cucumber and topped with a spicy sauce sounded tasty, as did the grilled fresh salmon, Teriyaki style.
Shu Mai (pork dumpling, dim sum style) is on the menu, as is Peking duck. The whole duck is prepared in phases and served with scallions, cucumber and hoisin sauce that are wrapped in warm Chinese crepes.
Atmosphere: The restaurant is bursting with color and decorations that emulate its origin of cuisine, including a koi pond near the hostess station. The different focal areas are divided by wall effects, giving the restaurant an open yet cozy atmosphere. The lighting includes an array of interesting and beautiful fixtures. Seating consists of large booths, tables and chairs, and bar seating.
Other observations: The waitstaff was efficient and friendly. Instead of one person, we had three people providing service to our table. Servers allowed us to finish and item before the next was brought to the table.
The disappointment with the chicken and pork came as a surprise to me because diners filled the seats for the dinner hour. I kept looking around to see what others were ordering — clearly, I had not chosen wisely.
Unfortunately, restaurants that have such extensive menus run this risk of poor quality control.
The Tatami Room has seating for 10 people and may be used with a minimum $100 purchase.
Cost: Appetizers are $3.95 to $5.95. Soup is $2.50 to $6.95. Salad costs $3.95 to $7.95. Dinner entrees range from $11.95 to $44.95. Noodle dishes are $7.95 to $11.95. Fried rice with mix-ins is $6.95 to $11.95. The special dinner box (California roll, shrimp tempura and shumai with choice of a main selection) is $16.95. The combination dinner box (spring roll, crab puff, soup or salad, rice and a dessert item with two main selections) is $15.95. Vegetable dishes are $9.95 to $11.95. Japanese lunch specials cost $6.99 to $8.99. Teriyaki dishes are $8.99 and $9.99. Lunch specials are $6.99 and $9.99. Sushi selections and combinations start at $12.95 and top out at $46.95. Deep-fried rolls are $6 to $8. Dessert ranges from $3 to $6.95.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Where: 16519 S.E. McGillivray Blvd., Vancouver.
Contact: 360-883-1858 or www.eastlandcuisine.com
Health Score: Eastland Sushi & Asian Cuisine received a score of 0 on Aug. 5. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
