Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, and 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday.
Where: 1220 Main St., Vancouver.
Contact: 360-693-9998 or www.charliesbodega.com
Health score: Charlie’s Bodega received a score of 5 on Dec. 12. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
Why: Charlie’s Bodega, also owned by the proprietors of La Bottega, has been reinvented. Charlie’s, previously known as Charlie’s Bistro, is a Spanish-inspired small-plates restaurant and whiskey bar. The chic sparkle of the bistro has been replaced with a more subdued character and a menu that reflects traditional Spanish recipes that use fresh, local ingredients. The whiskey bar serves local and international small-batch whiskeys and artistically inspired cocktails.
What I tried: My dining companion and I tried several of the menu items: bacon wrapped stuffed dates; wild rice corn fritters; bacalao; garlic chicken flatbread; a spinach, ham and fried egg salad; a baby greens salad; garden paella; bread pudding; and the chocolate pot de crème.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, and 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday.
Where: 1220 Main St., Vancouver.
Contact: 360-693-9998 or <a href="http://www.charliesbodega.com">www.charliesbodega.com</a>
Health score: Charlie's Bodega received a score of 5 on Dec. 12. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
Every item we tried was appetizing, and flavors ranged from full and robust to subtle and delicate. Portions were the perfect size for sharing with another person.
The dates, each stuffed with an almond, were served on a skewer and interspersed with a slice of meaty bacon, folded accordion style. The result was caramel goodness; it was almost dessert worthy.
I found the wild rice corn fritters a delightful blend of seasoned ingredients. Each fritter had a crispy exterior and the soft, almost fluffy interior was pleasantly void of excess oil. They were served atop a bit of smoked pepper remoulade sauce, which has a spicy kick that brings out the best in the fritters.
The bacalao, a salted cod and potato fritter, could be considered a mild tasting cousin to the rice and corn fritters. There was a slight amount of cod mixed with the potato, so these fritters did not have a flavor that was too fishy.
The flatbread was topped with white cheese, spinach, petite slices of chicken breast and roasted red pepper. It was cut into four equal pieces and tasted wholesome and fresh.
Both of the salads were garden fresh and unique in their own way. The spinach salad had pieces of ham throughout and a fried egg was placed on top. The egg’s yolk lent additional flavor to the sherry vinaigrette dressing, giving it a creamy quality. The baby greens salad was mixed with pickled shallots, Cabrales blue cheese, mandarin orange segments and spiced pecans. The blue cheese and pickled onions, though slightly opposing forces, bring it all together to create an interesting and appetizing salad.
The paella is made with saffron rice, mushrooms, olives, almonds, zucchini, red and yellow bell peppers and roasted onions. The dish is garnished with a sprinkling of sliced fresh green onion. It was scrumptious.
Both desserts were delectable and a satisfying finish to our meal.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Among the seafood choices, there is grilled baby octopus over greens and fennel, grilled sardine and romesco, and garlic prawns and chiles in sherry butter with a baguette. The chili braised pork leg with white beans, leeks and spinach sounded delicious, as did the arroz con pollo, which is a chicken confit with romesco sauce and saffron rice.
In addition to the garden paella, there is a smoked duck paella.
The whiskey options include iconic and signature cocktails and a plethora of other options you would expect from a bar with an impressive top shelf.
Atmosphere: The restaurant’s decor features dark shades of brown, green and brick tones, which are accented by black and various shades of wood. A few oil paintings decorate the larger areas of wall space. Lighting is mainly ceiling-can lights with a few halogen strips and pendants above tables. Petite oil pots give individual tables a romantic glow. There is seating at the bar, a couple of tall bistro tables by the glowing fireplace, and other tables throughout the restaurant.
Other observations: The wait staff is superb and the new look works. Menu items are expertly prepared and arrive to the table without delay. Small plates make dining at the new Charlie’s adventurous and satisfying, allowing a broad spectrum of items to be enjoyed in just one visit.
This remains one of my favorite restaurants in Clark County. I enjoyed everything about the old Charlie’s, but I have to say, it just keeps getting better.
Cost: Lunch selections range from $4 to $20, with most less than $10. Dinner small plates are $3 to $10, except for the cheese plate and a chorizo-and-smoked-duck plate, which cost $12 for the smaller portion and $18 for the larger portion. Salads are $6 to $13, and most are available in a small or large portion. Larger plates start at $10 and top out at $25. Alcoholic beverage prices are comparable to other establishments.
