Practice makes perfect omelet

Chef Michael Abt has high standards for the omelets his team serves at Le Diplomate, a bustling bistro in D.C.

He wants a shiny, soft finish and a super-creamy, even slightly runny interior. No browning and nothing rubbery.

“It should have a little structure on the outside, with beautifully scrambled eggs on the inside,” he says.

His attention has paid off: During a typical weekend brunch, the restaurant will make as many as 180 omelets. And it might have taken any new-to-the-line cooks a while to get those omelets right.

“We’ll grab the guys a couple flats of eggs and just let them do it over and over again” before their efforts are deemed worthy, Abt says. “It takes a lot of practice.”

The keys are gentle heat, constant stirring — and confidence. At home, a crack here or a spot of browning there won’t make or break your brunch, but once you get it down, you’ll be glad you did.

And you’ll never make them another way again.

Sunday Brunch Omelet

1 serving

To clarify butter, melt it, skim off the foam and pour the clear liquid into a bowl, discarding the white milk solids in the pan.

4 large organic eggs

2 tablespoons whole milk

1/2 teaspoon thinly sliced chives, plus some for garnish

1/2 teaspoon finely chopped parsley leaves

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 tablespoon unsalted clarified butter

1 1/2 ounces (about 6 tablespoons) freshly grated Gruyere cheese

Mixed green salad

In a bowl whisk eggs, milk, chives, parsley and salt. Continue whisking for a few minutes until the mixture is foamy and bubbly.

Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add butter. Once the butter is hot, give the eggs another few whisks and pour them into the pan.

Using a rubber spatula, stir the eggs while jerking the pan back and forth with your other hand. Cook the eggs very slowly, continuing to stir and scraping down the sides of the pan with the spatula periodically. Once the eggs are mostly set but still runny and wet on top, smooth them evenly across the pan and sprinkle them with the cheese. Turn off the heat, and cover the pan for a few seconds to barely melt the cheese.

Tilt the pan toward a plate, and use the spatula to fold the higher edge of the omelet over the center, using gravity to encourage the omelet to continue to roll and fold over. Slide it onto the plate and garnish with chives. Serve immediately, alongside a mixed green salad.