Why: Brewtopia is part of the Cinetopia movie complex at Westfield Vancouver mall. Cinetopia is known for its high quality and varied types of movies and dining experiences available at all four of its locations. Brewtopia offers lunch and dinner family dining and a full bar for the 21-and-older crowd.
What I tried: My dining companion and I tried two items that recently have been put on the menu. I had the salmon entree, which consists of a cranberry maple glazed salmon, sweet pumpkin risotto, pumpkin seed romesco, fennel pickled beets, and candied pepitas. My dining companion had the seasonal steak served with cauliflower cheddar puree, roasted Brussels sprouts, and horseradish butter. The fish and meat were done according to our specifications.
The grilled salmon tasted delicious topped with the sweet cranberry and maple glaze, and I was thankful to find just a small amount of gray meat toward the middle of the fish, which was easily scraped away from the rest. The romesco, traditionally served with fish, was mostly spicy, with a hint of sweetness, and the pumpkin seeds and other ingredients gave it a coarse texture that reminded me of a tapenade.
The risotto was creamy and slightly rich. I could not taste the pumpkin in it, but the flavor was very good. I thought the fennel pickled beets were one of those items that you either really like or don’t like — I really liked them. They were tangy and firm, and although the fennel flavor was undoubtably present, its edge was taken off by the pickling. The plate was garnished with a few petite cubes of fried pumpkin. This dish puts strong flavors side by side, and it works exceedingly well.
Dining Out review: Brewtopia
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily. Happy Hour is 3 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Where: 8700 N.E. Vancouver Mall Drive, Vancouver.
Contact: 360-448-4100 or www.cinetopia.com
Health score: Brewtopia received a score of 10 on Jan. 6. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
My dining companion enjoyed the steak, which was served in medallion-style slices. She noted that the marinated flavor was more concentrated on the outside of the steak and did not reach the center. Her favorite part of the dish was the cauliflower cheddar pur?e, and she found that the sprouts were a bit undercooked, leaving them too firm toward the center.
We finished our meal with a slice of cheesecake, which was drizzled with a raspberry glaze. The single serving was taller than usual and could be easily shared by two people. It was dense and creamy, and more like cream cheese than cheesecake. We also had a cup of coffee. Brewtopia serves Portland Roasters coffee.
Atmosphere: Brewtopia has a one-of-a-kind atmosphere. In keeping with the theater theme, the restaurant has a black, open ceiling and mostly dark blue walls, which have several varieties of screen technology built in for viewing select previews and movie bits. TVs are behind the bar, too. The dark, matte surfaces of the space are accented by lights and metallic features. Seating includes chairs paired with wall benches, and the dining space is separated from the bar with the use of half walls. Lounge seating with low tables are near a fireplace.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The hazelnut crusted chicken served with seasonal vegetables, roasted fingerling potatoes and lemon hazelnut beurre blanc sounded appetizing. The Blockbuster Burger is a half-pound natural Northwest beef patty with traditional toppings. It is served with seasoned, fresh-cut fries. A hummus plate features grilled pita bread, Kalamata olives, grape tomatoes, feta cheese and cucumbers; house-made falafel can be added. Portobello mushroom fries offer an alternative to regular fries. They are sliced thick and herb battered, fried to a golden brown and served with tarragon ranch dressing. Among the dessert selections is a red velvet bread pudding doused in cream cheese glaze.
Other observations: I found the wait staff professional and very attentive.
I like all the smooth surfaces in Brewtopia, which are easily kept clean. The only thing that I thought needed tending to was the glass on the fireplace feature, which needs to be spiffed up.
The food served in Cinetopia’s movie auditoriums is prepared in the same kitchen as that served in the restaurant, so expect a longer wait than usual. The restaurant was not busy at the time of my visit, and it took approximately 30 minutes for our food to arrive after placing the order.
When we ordered dessert and coffee, we were surprised that the coffee was delivered in paper to-go cups instead of mugs. Also, when we asked for cream, it was brought to the table in a plastic condiment cup. This was very odd after what could be classified as a more upscale dining experience.
Cost: Appetizers cost $7 to $11. Salads are $6 to $8. Entrees range from $12 to $18. Sides are $5 and $6, and desserts are $8. Beer is available in pints for $5.50 and $6.50 and pitchers for $18 and $21. Wine is served by the glass starting at $6.50 or by the bottle starting at $26 and topping out at $75.
