The Northern Rhône is particularly known for its syrah — a grape receiving quite a nod in the Walla Walla Valley right now — but fruity and floral whites such as viognier, marsanne and roussanne are not only planted, they’re celebrated in notable growing regions such as Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage.
While viognier is found as a stand-alone varietal, a label marked marsanne will most likely be a trio blend of predominantly marsanne followed by a percentage of roussanne and/or viognier for added depth and to increase the acidity, thereby improving its ageability.
As a lesser-known variety, marsanne is not often found on a restaurant list — particularly a smaller restaurant — so when I see it, my first thought is “Daring, bold and brilliant choice by the restaurateur,” followed by “I know what I’m ordering.” I mean, you can have chardonnay and pinot gris virtually everywhere.
Back in July I had the good fortune to lunch at Bleu Door Bakery in downtown Vancouver after its recent expansion and Bonnie, being one of those daring, bold and brilliant types, had an Isenhower Cellars 2014 Marsanne on her efficient wine list. With under 20 percent roussanne and a splash of viognier, this full-bodied white paired splendidly with the richness of my crustless quiche in similar fashion to the way an oaked chardonnay would, but the light almond aromas had nothing to do with oak contact (this marsanne was fermented in stainless steel, in fact); the perfume notes — more a result of the roussanne presence although marsanne lends quince notes — mingled wonderfully with the fresh garden vegetables; and the wine minerality suited the earthiness of the eggs. Each bite of quiche and sip of wine continued to prove my suspicions that this was an inspired pairing.
