The approach of autumn signals considerable changes in the well-planned garden. This is when the foliage of trees, shrubs and many perennials take on the color shades of the season. Rusty red and pumpkin orange, burnished bronze and the faded gold of ornamental grasses. As gardeners, we have chosen fall foliage plants carefully in seasons past and quite often in years gone by. As time passes in the garden, we sometimes find that a tree or shrub we selected for specific characteristics is not living up to its potential. This is the perfect time of year to transplant the right plant to the right place in the garden.
One key to creating a garden is thoughtful planning. Another key is the willingness to change our perspective and allow the flow of nature to have an equal say in the results of our plan. This is why we might buy a certain plant, say, the Paperbark Maple, “Acer griseum,” for its brick-red autumn leaves and find, in time, that it doesn’t get enough full sunlight where it’s planted in the garden to take on the rich red color you had hoped it would. This is a typical scenario that every gardener experiences as a part of their gardening life. Rather than thinking of it as a mistake, consider it one more step toward getting the garden exactly the way you want it to be.
Before you transplant, determine the specific needs of the plant you are moving and make sure the new location will better fit its needs. Ask yourself the simple questions. Does it want sun or shade? What space will it take up as it matures, both in width and height? Consider the plants that are already in this new location, including their need for water and light. Will their needs be compatible? Remember, when you bring a new plant into an established setting, you are creating a tapestry of color, texture and shape.
Begin the job of transplanting by digging the new planting hole. When you dig up any plant, the longer its roots go without a home, the lower your chances for a successful transplanting. You might have to guesstimate the exact size of the new hole but you can get most of the digging done ahead of time. The width of the new hole should be two to three times that of the plant’s rootball. The depth should be kept the same as that of the rootball. If anything, make the hole a bit shallower, to avoid water pooling around the base of the plant and consequent root rot.
